My Experience of Great Barrier Island

I am lucky to call Aotearoa New Zealand my home and I love nothing more than exploring my own back yard. There is one place, in particular, that has found a special place in my heart and that is Great Barrier Island which I prefer to refer to as Aotea, the first name given to this island paradise by Polynesian settlers. I have been fortunate to spend a lot of time on Aotea since my first trip in 2011. Over this time I have explored all corners of the island and had the privilege to meet many wonderful locals.

Great Barrier Island is approximately 100km off the coast of Auckland.  It is an easy thirty-minute flight or a four-hour ferry ride.  The island has less than a thousand permanent residents who live totally off the grid.  They are very self-sufficient and many grow or gather their own food.  In 2017 this island was given the status of ‘Dark Sky Sanctuary’.  You can witness the most amazing night sky’s here!

There are three main centers on the island.  Tryphena in the south where it is most populated and where the ferry comes in most frequently.  Claris is in the middle and where you will find the airport, medical center, art gallery, and museum.  Finally, there is Port Fitzroy in the north which is less populated.  However, it can get very busy in the summer with many boats setting anchor in the sheltered bays.

I have been lucky enough to have spent a number of winters living on Great Barrier Island.  Winter is not the best season to be there but I am happy to be on the island any time of the year and it is the best time to see those amazing night skies.  The majority of my time there has been working as the lead teacher on an outdoor education programme for youth.  It is a programme run by a Hillcrest High School and Hillary Outdoors Education Centre.  Thirty students, aged fourteen/fifteen, spend five weeks living on the island in Karaka Bay with the Orama Oasis community.  It is an amazing programme and the young people who get to experience it are super lucky!

History on Great Barrier Island

So what does Great Barrier Island have to offer?  Well to start with the history here is interesting and dates back about 700 years with the arrival of the first human inhabitants.  The Māori that now call this island home are known as the people of Ngāti Rehua, originally descendants of of Ngāti Wai.  You will find two functioning marae (meeting places) at the north end of the island. 

In the 1800s, Europeans arrived and conducted many activities including mining of copper, silver and gold, logging the giant Kauri tree and whaling.  Farming has also been popular over the years with cattle, bees and mussels farming.  The island has had its share of shipwrecks with many lives lost.  To learn more about the history of Great Barrier Island you can visit the Milk, Honey and Grain Museum in Claris.

Hiking on Great Barrier Island

You can explore many parts of the island on foot with some fantastic hiking tracks!  I have walked every public track on this island and my personalfavourites would have to be the Harataonga Coastal Walkway and the South Fork Track. For everything you need to know about walks, hiking and huts on Great Barrier Island check out my Ultimate Guide.

Conservation on Great Barrier Island

The Department of Conservation not only looks after the tracks, huts, and campsites here but they take care of many endangered species on Great Barrier Island. The island is home to the Pāteke (Brown Teal Duck), which are only found in New Zealand and the majority live on this island.  Another special bird here is the Black Petrel that comes only to this island and Little Barrier Island to breed each year.  When ready to fly they make their way across the Pacific Ocean to South America.  However, they always return to Great Barrier Island and Little Barrier to nest.  Other natives birds you will spot are the Kākā, Kererū (NZ Pigeon), Kākāriki (Green Parrot), and the NZ Dotterel.  If you are a bird enthusiast you will find many more to observe, check out this complete list. 

It is worth calling into the DOC office, in Okiwi, and chatting to the friendly staff.  They can tell you all about their work, the incredible wildlife there or answer questions about camping and hiking.  A visit to the Glenfern Sanctuary, in Port Fitzroy, is also worthwhile.  The sanctuary is situated on a peninsular and surrounded by a predator-proof fence to keep out the rats and wild cats.  There are walking tracks that will take you to Sunset Rock and a swing bridge out to the canopy of a 600-year-old giant Kauri tree.  You will also find fantastic accommodation at Glenfern. 

Kaitoke Hot Springs

A real gem on Great Barrier Island is the Kaitoke Hot Springs and I always find time for a soak when I visit.  The easiest way to reach it is an easy thirty-minute walk starting from the entrance on Whangaparapara Road.  These are natural thermal hot springs and are best visited when there has been no rain as they will be nice and hot.  I like winter best as it is quiet and often you can get the place all to yourself.  It is also a treat to go out there at night and soak in the warm water under the amazing starry sky. 

Fishing and Diving at Great Barrier Island

Fishing, snorkeling, and diving here is fantastic.  Many of the island residents gather their food from the ocean and this island sure provides.  I really enjoy fishing, especially from a kayak.  Snapper is what I most commonly catch but other common species to catch are kahawai, trevally, john dory, and kingfish.  If you are into spearfishing you will have even more to choose from. If you like diving and find the right spots you may discover crayfish, paua(abalone), and kina (sea urchin).  Mussels can be easier to find and you will find rock oysters everywhere.  If you are going to gather seafood from this around this island be sure to know what the legal limits are.  Only take what you need and remember that for many of the locals this is one of their main food sources.

Marine Life around Great Barrier Island

Snorkeling in many areas, especially around Port Fitzroy can be a real treat with plenty of sea life to be seen.  Rays are common and if you are lucky you might get to see a pod of dolphins or even some whales. A special phenomenon I have experienced here is phosphorescence in the water at night.  This is water glowing when there is movement caused by the disturbance of plankton.  It is the most amazing thing to see and experience.  I have jumped in the water with nearly thirty teenage girls in the middle of winter at 10pm to experience this.  It was so cold but so amazing that we remained in the water for nearly half an hour.  We were totally mesmerized by the glow every time we moved.  This has occurred regularly during my time here so definitely something to keep an eye out for.

Planning to head out to Great Barrier Island?

Great Barrier Island is a popular tourist destination in the summertime.  Do take this into consideration if you are planning on heading out here in the warmer months.  You will find plenty of places to stay from camping to luxury homes.  However, do be aware that this island is off the grid.  Energy and water are precious and not to be wasted.  Lights are turned off when you leave a room and don’t leave the tap running when you are brushing your teeth. 

If you do plan to spend some time here I would recommend bringing a car on the ferry or hiring one when you arrive.  By bringing your own car on the ferry you have the bonus of bringing more gear with you.  When you fly you are limited with luggage.   Pre-book everything if you are coming in the summer months as it does get really busy!  I do hope you will consider visiting Great Barrier Island as it is truly a special place.

Other articles that may interest you:
Getting to Great Barrier Island,
The Best Things to do on Great Barrier Island,
Walks, Hikes and Huts on Great Barrier Island

ABOUT THE WRITER – Karllie is a solo budget traveller with a passion for inspiring others to explore her homeland of Aotearoa New Zealand and beyond. Having travelled to many places around the world she still believes there is nowhere more amazing and beautiful as home. In her 40s, Karllie has a background in education and enjoys the outdoors, especially hiking. Find out more about Karllie…

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