Aotea, or Great Barrier Island as it is more commonly known, is a bucket list destination for many. This ‘off the grid’ island is something special with a population of fewer than 1000 residents. It is a popular holiday destination in the summer where many enjoy the beaches and the ocean for snorkelling, fishing, and diving. Outdoor enthusiasts go hiking on the numerous island tracks and keen kayakers find the island an adventurous one to circumnavigate. More recently the island has gained ‘Dark Sky Sanctuary’ status, one of only a few in the world, making it a popular destination for photographers, stargazers and astronomers.

If you are considering a trip to Aotea and you are not sure what to check out while you are there then I can help you with that. I have been visiting this island paradise since 2011 and have explored just about every corner and curve. Putting together a list of the top things to do was not hard at all because there are so many fun and interesting things to do on Great Barrier Island.

SOAK IN THE HOT SPRINGS

Kaitoke Hot Springs is high on everyone’s ‘to do’ list, it is absolutely one of the best things to do on Great Barrier Island. It is a natural hot spring in the bush. Taking a soak here means getting into the stream and finding a comfy spot on a rock or the mud floor. The easy 30-45 minute walk makes the hot springs very accessible, even for a stroller. You will find the start of the track on Whangaparapara Road, about six minutes drive from Claris. A toilet is located at the start of the track and another at the hot springs. Please remember any tracks that have a wash station must be used for scrubbing and rinsing footwear, poles, and wheels. This is to help prevent the spread of Kauri Dieback which is threatening our forest giants. It is important to use these on entry and exit from any track you use if one is available.

The walk will take you around and through the Kaitoke Wetlands which is a pleasant experience in itself. When you arrive at the hot springs be sure to wander up the path to check out the best spot for getting in. There are a number of smaller pools along the stream. If there has not been any rain the pools get really hot, often too hot for a summer’s day. However, the evenings and cooler months are perfect for enjoying these naturally heated healing waters. If it is raining or there has been recent rain the hot springs can really cool down. Making this your last stop on a full or multi-day hike is also a great idea. Your body will surely thank you for it.

VISIT THE MUSEUM

Aotea has a lot of interesting history and the local museum is the best place to discover everything post-colonisation. David, who runs the museum, has put together a great collection of information and items as well as adding some of his humour and wit. Be sure to open any doors you come across and you will see for yourself. The history you will find includes periods of farming, whaling, mining, and timber milling. The museum is just a short walk from Claris Airport. Entry is by donation which helps David keep the museum open and running. This is definitely a stop worth making while you are visiting Aotea.

HIRE AN ELECTRIC MOTORBIKE

The most environmentally friendly fun way to explore the island is on an electric bike from Motu Bikes. I have taken one of these moped like bikes for a spin and they are so much fun! Driving around the island for the first time can be a little nerve-racking with narrow winding roads. However, on these bikes you have plenty of room for passing oncoming traffic. You will find Motu Bikes just a short walk from Claris airport so you can pick one up as soon as you land. Or just drop in and grab one for a day to explore. You can hire them for $20 an hour or $75 for a full day through to 10am the next morning. This isn’t just one of the best things to do on Great Barrier Island but one of the most invigorating.

GO HIKING AND EXPLORE THE OUTDOORS

Many people visit Aotea to hike the numerous tracks the island has to offer. With the Aotea Conservation Park and a variety of other tracks on the island, there is something for every age and level of fitness. If you are keen on multi-day hiking then the Aotea Track is a popular option with two Department of Conservation huts to stay in. I have walked just about every track on the island and can share a wealth of knowledge and experience. Hiking is absolutely one of the best things to do on Great Barrier Island. Find out more on walks, hiking and huts…

ENJOY BIRD WATCHING IN OKIWI PARK

This place is really special and visiting is one of my favourite things to do on Great Barrier Island. I love showing visitors this gorgeous park full of birdlife. I am never disappointed when I visit and it is the only place I know where to find Kakariki. You can also expect to see Kererū, Tūī, Kingfisher, Kākā and Banded Rail. The children of Te Kura o Okiwi (Okiwi School) are the kaitiaki (caretakers) of this park and their presence is noticed with the many plaques you will discover. There are tables throughout the park as well as two free barbeques which makes it the perfect place to stop for a picnic and enjoy the birdsong.

TRY BEER TASTING AT AOTEA BREWING

Located in Medlands, Aotea Brewing has to be one of the most environmentally friendly craft beer breweries you will find. Aotea is off the grid and so is this brewery which has a ‘zero waste’ practice. They even have an APA called Solar Charged which is very popular with the locals. You won’t find any beverage packaged in a single-use bottle or can as they only fill re-fillable containers. You can purchase a refillable glass bottle or cooling canister (a great option if you are camping) from them or take your own re-fillable vessel. Over the warmer months, they are open Thursday to Sunday for beer tasting and purchases. However, you can find their beer and cider at other locations which are open 7 days a week such as The Rocks bottle shop in Claris.

DISCOVER A WATERFALL

Waterfalls are few and far between on Aotea but there are three locations I can tell you about. The first waterfall I will mention is in the north on Warrens’s Track. This leads to a great little location with swimming holes and plenty of room to relax and enjoy the surroundings. The quickest and easiest way to access the falls is by starting at the track entrance opposite Akapoua Campsite in Port Fitzroy. It will take you about 20 minutes to get to the falls.

The next waterfall is on the Tramline Track. It is the most impressive waterfall with a fantastic swimming hole at the bottom if you can find a way down. To get there you need to start at the beginning of the Tramline Track on Aotea Road, not too far from Windy Canyon. It will take you about half an hour to get there with a very steep descent just before you reach the falls.

And lastly is Kauri Falls. This is just a little waterfall with a good pool for a refreshing dip. You will find Kauri Falls at the other end of the Tramline Track near Whangaparapara. To get there you take the same entrance as the Green Campsite, just before the end of Whangaparapara Road. It is an easy 30-minute walk following the Tramline track. There is a signpost showing you where to turn off to the falls.

EAT THE BEST BURGER IN TOWN

My favourite food stop is Swallow for the best burgers on the island! You can find this little burger shack just down the road from Claris airport making it the perfect place to refuel when you arrive on the island. My favourite is the mussel burger but there is a great range of choices for all tastebuds. Due to popularity and limited access to ingredients, they sometimes sell out of some options but I have never been disappointed with any alternatives offered. The fish burger is usually my backup if they are out of mussels. You can pay by EFTPOS or cash.

WALK TO THE BEST LOOKOUTS

There are many amazing lookouts on the island but not all of them are easy to access. I have three favourites that all take less than half an hour to get to. The first is up north near Okiwi on the Harataonga Track. You will find the start of the track on Aotea Road, close to the bottom of the hill if you are coming from Windy Canyon. There is a very small car park opposite the track where you can park a couple of vehicles. The walk to the lookout takes you along a mostly sheltered track that winds up the hillside to a spectacular looking over Whangapoua Beach, Whangapoua Harbour, and Okiwi settlement.

Getting back to Windy Canyon, this is absolutely a ‘must-do’ lookout. The entrance to Windy Canyon is at the top of the hill on Aotea Road, between Awana and Okiwi. This is also the start of Palmers Track to the summit of Hirakimatā (Mt Hobson). There is plenty of room for parking on the other side of the road and you will also find a long drop toilet here. The walk to the lookout only takes about 10-15 minutes but there are a number of stairs to climb. Once you get to the top you have incredible views towards Whangapoua and back towards Kaitoke and Claris.

The final lookout worth a mention is Station Rock. The quickest access is from Medlands Road, at the top of the hill. You will find parking space on both sides of the road. The walk to Station Rock only takes 10-15 minutes but there is a bit of a climb up the track and stairs to get there. The view from the rock offers an amazing view over Medlands and if you continue down the track another 20 meters you will get a great view towards Tryphena.

APPRECIATE LOCAL ART & CRAFTS

The Community Heritage and Arts Village includes a volunteer-run art gallery that is home to original artworks created by a number of talented local artists. Several buildings are located in the vicinity which is just a few doors down from Claris Airport. The Art Gallery is set up in Mabey House (built 1908). Here you will also find a variety of displays and items including paintings, sculptures, jewellery, clothing, balms, lotions, and books. This is a great place to stop and pick up some local memorabilia or gifts. In Gray Cottage (built 1922) you will find historical items and memorabilia as well as some local information. On-site is also the old Tryphena School Masters House which is used for a variety of things including workshops. Just across the road, you will find another gallery that displays work by Vivian Keenan, my favourite island artist.

SWIM IN A MERMAID POOL

Visiting Oruawharo Bay (Medland’s Beach – named after the Medland’s family) is one of the most popular things to do on Great Barrier Island. The bay is named after Ruawharo, an Ariki (high priest) from the Takitimu Waka (Māori canoe). Pre-European this bay was home to an extensive Māori settlement. Today many visitors make this gorgeous white sand beach a ‘must-do’ stop during their time on the island. However, you will never find it crowded. What many visitors don’t know is that at low tide a mermaid pool appears below Memory Rock. This is the large rock about halfway along the beach. You can scramble up a path to get to the top of the rock for some pretty cool views. But it is this mermaid pool that is the real gem here. The perfect place to cool down and relax on a hot summer day.

STAY UP LATE FOR THE STARS

Aotea is an International Dark Sky Sanctuary, one of only two in New Zealand and ten in the world (as of 2020). This status means it has next to no light pollution making it one of the best nightscapes anywhere in the world. The winter months are more popular for astrotourism attracting astronomers and photographers from all over the world. A number of local companies offer night sky tours and experiences including Star Treks and Good Heavens. The dark skies of Aotea are truly something special so make sure you head outdoors after dark for a real treat. This is definitely one of the best things to do on Great Barrier Island.

SURF SOME WAVES

Surfing is a popular past time for many locals with the east coast exposed to some great swells and surf. You can bring your own board over on the ferry/plane or hire one from the Salty Bushman who will deliver to Medlands and Claris. As far as the best surf spots go, they would be Medlands, Awana Beach and the Whangapoua harbour entrance.

VISIT GLENFERN SANCTUARY

Glenfern Sanctuary is an 83-hectare Regional Park located in Port Fitzroy. The sanctuary is home to some very special species including the chevron skink, New Zealand’s largest and rarest native lizard. The Tāiko (Black Petrel) and Pāteke (Brown Teal Duck) are two endangered birds that can also found here. To help protect the wildlife is a predator-proof fence that runs from Port Fitzroy to Karaka Bay, separating Kotuku Peninsula from the rest of the island. The Glenfern Loop Track is what attracts many visitors as it provides a great way to experience the sanctuary. The complete loop will take about an hour and is recommended to be done anti-clockwise. It is suitable for most fitness levels but it does have a number of stairs to climb. Highlights of the walk include the Pāteke pond, views from sunset rock and a 600-year-old kauri tree that you can walk out into the canopy of. Entry into the park is free but you can pay for guided tours which are a great idea for groups. You will also find accommodation here with the beautifully restored Fitzroy House, one of the oldest remaining homesteads on the island.

BOOK A FISHING CHARTER OR A SIGHT SEEING TOUR BY BOAT

Whether you love fishing or not, time out on a boat is a great way to spend a half or full day on Aotea. Chris from Hooked on Barrier offers a variety of fishing and sightseeing experiences and comes highly recommended. Find an experience that interests you and check the calendar for availability. Or better still, just give Chris a call. Check out his website for more information.

STOP FOR COFFEE, CAKE, BRUNCH OR LUNCH

My Fat Puku is conveniently located in Claris near the airport which makes it a great place to stop as soon as you get off the plane. This cafe doesn’t just make great coffee but their food is exceptional! The cafe uses fresh locally sourced produced and organic coffee. They also have an on-site microbrewery producing their own local beer which they sell along with a great selection of wines.

If you happen to be looking for great food and coffee down south of the island then Pah Beach Cafe is your one-stop coffee shop. Just a 10-minute drive from the Tryphena Wharf, the cafe is located right by the Stonewall Store and just across the road from Pah Beach. They are open for breakfast and lunch, coffee and cake, eat-in or takeaway and cater for all dietary requirements. The coffee is excellent, salads amazing but my favourite is the unbelievably tasty ginger slice.

TAKE AN ISLAND TOUR ON THE ‘CRAZYHORSE’ TRIKE

You won’t find a more exhilarating way to explore this island than on the back of a trike! Crazyhorse Trike Tours and Joy Rides offer 2-5 hour tours starting from $75 per person. The Rewaco factory-built trike has two very comfortable back seats and a very experienced local driver who can show you all the best spots on the island . It doesn’t get more fun than this!

EXPLORE AN OLD MINE FOR CAVE WETA

Mining for gold and silver took place on Aotea from the 1890s through to 1908. This mining took place around the area of Te Ahumata, also known as the White Cliffs. On Blind Bay Road you will find a short walk to Iona Mine, an old mining tunnel. The tunnel is blocked off about eight meters in but you can enter far enough to find the very cool but creepy cave weta. Cave weta are one of New Zealand’s native critters found in the Coromandel, Auckland and Northland regions. This is maybe not for everyone but if you have never seen a cave weta before then you really should check these ones out.

PLAY SOME ISLAND GOLF

If you enjoy a good round of golf then this great little 9-hole golf course is surely a ‘must-do’. You will find it just a few minutes from Claris on Whangaparapara Road, situated under the magnificent Te Ahumata (The White Cliffs). Open seven days a week, visitors are more than welcome and you can hire clubs if you don’t happen to have your own. There are club days if you want to mingle with the locals every Thursday and Sunday starting around 11am. If you visit outside of club days then there is an honesty box system for you to pay your $20 green fee. You can find more information on this Great Barrier Island website.

PICNIC UNDER GIANT PŌHUTAKAWA

The pōhutakawa is a New Zealand icon, our national Xmas tree. This native tree bursts out in red during December putting on quite a display along coastlines in the upper North Island. The trees can grow to be hundreds of years old and there is a great collection of old trees down at Okupu Beach. With a number of picnic tables and public toilets nearby, this is a great place to hang out with a packed lunch and swimwear. It is also a good place to launch kayaks for fishing and exploring in the bay.

HELPFUL ADVICE FOR VISITING AOTEA

WHERE TO STAY – There are plenty of accommodation options on Aotea with the majority of places situated in the Medlands and Tryphena areas. Air Bnb is also popular and the Department of Conservation has six campsites around the island which can be booked online as can the two huts.

HOW TO GET AROUND – Most people visiting Aotea will rent a car as there are a number of car rental companies to choose from. You can also organise shuttles for pickups and drops offs which can be useful for hikers getting to and from tracks. For the more adventurous, electric scooters are a popular option for getting around and hitchhiking is also common on Aotea and very safe.

WHAT TO DO WITH YOUR RUBBISH – Waste management is a challenge on Aotea with the landfill due to close in the next few years. It is important to make sure you are clear on what to do with your waste if you are visiting Aotea. There are no public rubbish bins so you must dispose of your own waste appropriately or take it home with you… For more information please read this…

Other articles that may interest you:
GETTING TO GREAT BARRIER ISLAND
WALKS, HIKING AND HUTS ON GREAT BARRIER ISLAND
VISITING TIRITIRI MATANGI ISLAND

ABOUT THE WRITER – Karllie is a solo budget traveller with a passion for inspiring others to explore her homeland of Aotearoa New Zealand and beyond. Having travelled to many places around the world she still believes there is nowhere more amazing and beautiful as home. In her 40s, Karllie has a background in education and enjoys the outdoors, especially hiking. Find out more about Karllie…

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