The Cook Islands – Rarotonga & Aitutaki are two of the most visited of the 15 major islands of this Pacific nation. When I decided Rarotonga would be my summer adventure and where I would see in the new year, I knew I had to include Aitutaki. I was told it is one of the most beautiful island lagoons in the world so I had to check it out.
GETTING THERE
I am fortunate to get a long holiday break over the NZ summer, so I decided to spend some of this time in the Cook Islands. Summertime, I was told, is the quiet season with July through to September being the peak period. Booking flights with Air New Zealand to and from Rarotonga was easy enough, but I did book months in advance. I am not sure how close to the trip you should book, but my flight was full with not a seat spare on the plane and only three seat selection options left when I checked in less than 24 hours before my flight. So I would recommend planning ahead by booking flights as early as possible if you want to make this trip.
Something nobody mentioned, which I thought was really IMPORTANT, is that the Cook Islands are nearly a whole day behind Aotearoa, New Zealand. Twenty-three hours behind, to be exact. Luckily, I was curious about the time difference and checked the week before I was due to fly as I had not booked my accommodation accordingly. Thankfully, I was able to check in a day early, and the bonus was I got one more day in this island paradise.
ACCOMMODATION
My accommodation choice was an Air Bnb in both Rarotonga and Aitutaki. In Rarotonga, I found a great place in Tupapa, just a 30-minute walk from the main centre and less than 10 minutes walk to Club Raro. I didn’t realise how perfect the location was until I got there. My host picked me up from the airport and welcomed me with a gorgeous neck ei, I felt very special. This Air bnb was like a home away from home and perfect for what I wanted in a place to stay. In Aitutaki, I also booked an Air BnB, a self-contained unit in Arutanga with wonderful hosts who also greeted me at the airport with a neck ei and a nice cold coconut ready to drink. After returning from Aitutaki, I had one more night in Rarotonga and decided to splash out on a night at a resort and chose The Edgewater Resort & Spa which I really enjoyed, especially the air-conditioning.
DAY 1 – ARRIVING IN RAROTONGA
I left Aotearoa, New Zealand, on the 27th of December, which meant I arrived in Rarotonga, Cook Islands, on the 26th, Boxing Day. Holidays are observed quite strictly, as are Sundays, which means just about everything is closed, and the island was very quiet. Once I had settled into my accommodation, I ventured out on foot as no buses were running. This is how I discovered it took me 30 minutes to walk to town (Avarua), which was a nice stroll, even in the heat of summer. I found nothing open except for a couple of convenience stores where I was able to buy a cold drink and a few supplies.
I was fortunate with the weather and found it interesting that the temperature stayed the same through the day and the night. Sitting in the mid-20s was such a nice warm but rather sticky as the humidity was between 75-85%. And, of course, the water is just that little bit warmer as well, but still cold enough to cool down.
DAY 2 – EXPLORING THE ISLAND BY BUS
My first full day on the island had me on the bus, experiencing the public transport. The buses do a full circuit of the island in both directions, with the clockwise bus leaving town on the hour and the anti-clockwise bus leaving town on the half hour. Buses don’t run on a Sunday. I decided to take both buses, taking the long way to town and then the long way home so I could see the full circuit of Rarotonga in both directions. The one-way fare was $5, a return fare $8, or you could buy a 10-ride concession for $30. The bus seemed like a popular option for locals and visitors alike. The bus was my preferred option for the first few days but decided to hire a car for the rest as no buses would run on Sunday and New Year’s DAY.
The morning was spent in town, where I found a good coffee and a friendly face at Stacks and then explored the shops. I also ran into two people I knew, which didn’t surprise me. It is that sort of place, with many New Zealanders having connections to the Cook Islands or holidaying there. With a little souvenir shopping done and the town covered, it was time to see what local attractions I could find closer to my accommodation. It turned out that the Club Raro Resort was just a five-minute walk down the road, the perfect place to spend a few hours in the afternoon. Many resorts allow day visitors as long as they are drinking and/or dining. Club Raro is a ‘no children’ resort which, suited me perfectly. They have a pool bar so you can cool down and drink to your heart’s content. I decided to have a local beer and a snack before taking a dip in the ocean right in front of the resort. It turned out to not the best location for swimming but I did get to cool down in the shallow close to the shore. Then it was happy hour, so I treated myself to a cocktail, a local version of a the famous Pina Colada.
I wanted to check out a few other places, so next, I called into the Fisherman’s Club for another beer and met a few locals and visitors. This had a more local vibe to it which I liked. I was tempted to return later in the evening for karaoke but never got there in the end. I decided the last place to check out was the Tamarind Restaurant for dinner. It is a nice location, like everywhere, right on the beach. The meal was delicious, pan seared Yellow Fin Tuna on a local root hash with a coconut curry sauce and corn relish topped with banana halves. So many gorgeous flavours!
After dinner, it was about me done for the day and nice to come back to my accommodation and relax. I ended up chatting with my lovely host for much of the evening, enjoying her company. The night seemed to have cooled down a little, not much though, but just enough to not feel sticky which made for a more comfortable sleep.
DAY 3 – MURI BEACH
The next morning, I spent time relaxing with a book. I had planned to spend the afternoon at Muri Beach, staying long enough to find some dinner at the Muri Night Markets. This is a great spot on the island to swim and relax on the beach. Both Captain Tamas Tours and Koka Tours operate from this beach. I had decided not to do either tour as I had already booked a boat tour on Aitutaki, However, my gorgeous niece had entered a Christmas giveaway competition Koka Tours were running and managed to win me a free trip for two with Koka Tours. I just had to figure out if I could book the trip before I left the island.
Once I had found my way down to the beach, my first thought was to just get in the water. Muri Beach is a lagoon sheltered by a few islands, so a safe place to swim. There was a lot of water activity going on, from swimming and snorkelling to stand-up paddle boarding and kayaking. After a swim, I lay on the beach with my book before deciding to find a drink and a snack. I ventured into the Rarotonga Sailing Club, which had tables along a veranda right on the beach. A Cooks lager and a bowl of island chips (local root vegetables) did the trick. It was the perfect spot to continue with my book and enjoy the views.
Once I was done there, I took a stroll down the beach and back again before having another swim. Then it was time to go and find the markets, which opened at 5pm. There were not a lot of food stalls, but there was a good selection of dishes to choose from. I decided to go for the ika mata (raw fish) and fried bread, which was definitely a good choice. I was lucky to catch the last anti-clockwise bus of the day although I was prepared to take the clockwise bus and the long way back to my accommodation. The bus ride is a nice way to kill time, especially if you get a seat next to an open window where you can enjoy the breeze and the views.
DAY 4 – EXPLORING THE ISLAND BY CAR
I had booked a hire car with Island Car & Bike Hire to collect at 10am. However, when I arrived to get it, they didn’t have a car ready for me. Although I was keen to get out and about, it was no drama, and I was told there should be a car available at about 12pm. Sure enough, I got a call to say a car was ready and that they would come and pick me up as I had returned to my accommodation and my book while I waited. Once I had my car, I was off. I had a couple of places in mind to check out: the Maire Nui Gardens and the Marine and Eco Centre. The Maire Nui Gardens were open, but the café was closed, and I was starving as I had thought to hold off on lunch so I could enjoy it at the gardens and include a stroll. So, I decided not to stick around and save the gardens for another day. I got around the other side of the island to discover the Marine and Eco Centre was also closed.
I was really hungry by now, so I decided to check out another resort that allowed day visitors and headed to the Rarotongan. This is a cool resort! It is very island-looking and well set up for families. There was a fun waterfall pool, which looked like a hit with the kids, and another pool for everyone to enjoy. As for me, I was there to enjoy a decent lunch and a nice cold beer. The Cooks Lager was going down a treat and was complimented with an island fish and chips dish. It was a little different from the typical fish n chips in that the fish was coated in a coconut crumb, and the chips were island root vegetables and banana. I was very satisfied. I also ran into an ex-student and his family at the resort, so catching up with them was really nice too.
It was straight back to my accommodation for a shower and change before catching the bus to Vaiana’s Bistro & Bar. Here, I was meeting some old friends of my mums who I wouldn’t have seen since I was a teenager. It was great catching up and reminiscing about days long gone on the water’s edge with my toes in the sand. Vaiana’s had a great vibe and my favourite drinking hole so far. After catching up and a few wines later, I was offered a ride home. It was still early, though, and I had remembered that the Fisherman’s Club had a string band playing, so I thought I would wander down and check it out. Before long, I was mingling with the locals and then invited to join the band. They gave me a shaker and shake I did along to the ukelele and singing. It was loads of fun and kept me entertained for a few hours. They even did a set of NZ Māori waiata, which I could sing along to as the waiata were all familiar. A super social, fun evening it was.
DAY 5 – MARKET DAY
The Punanga Nui Market is a must-do activity if you are around on a Saturday. I arrived just before 9am and the place was humming. The best parking is out the back of the markets, but even that fills up quite fast, or it had by the time I got there. It’s a good idea to save breakfast for the markets as there are plenty of food sheds and stalls. I decided to start my day with more ika mata, not something I would usually go for in the morning, but why not while I am on the islands? If you are looking for some goodies to take home, then this is the place to do it. You will find everything from sarongs and jewellery to soaps and clothing. I cruised around the markets a few times, was entertained by a boy of about eight with his fire stick dancing, and just chilled under the shade of a tree, sipping on an iced tea and enjoying the vibe. Before I left, I grabbed some more kai to put away for lunch and dinner later, a hangi, sashimi, and a rice dish.
By the time I left the markets, it was stinking hot, and the only thing on my mind was a swim. I had brought my own snorkel gear with me so I thought I would head to Muri Beach for a swim and snorkel. Before getting to Muri, I stopped at a historic site, especially significant for many NZ Māori. The site was said to be the location where the seven waka departed for Aotearoa. The site is identified with a circle of rocks, one rock for each of the seven waka. These rocks have become small shrines with taonga (special gifts) placed on and around them. It is not a site anyone really talks about, but a couple of friends from back home had mentioned the site to me, so I knew I had to check it out. Definitely, a special place.
I decided to drive a little further past Muri Beach to see if I could spot any other swimming spots, but I never saw anything before calling it to the Blue Moon Art Gallery. The artwork out front is so colourful and eye-catching, so you can’t miss it. A real variety of themes, with much of the artwork digital, something the artist said he has moved to in his later years. A mention of snorkelling had the artist recommend trying the very south end of Muri, just in front of the last small island near Koka Boat Tours. Having not heard from Koka, I thought I would try my luck and call in just in case someone was in the office. As luck had it, there was. They confirmed the Sunday tour was full but to maybe call in the morning just in case someone cancels. I mentioned that it would only be me and it must have been my lucky day as they said they could squeeze me in, I was so happy!
I still hadn’t gone for a swim, so down to the beach, I went straight into the water only to be disappointed by how warm it was. Not the cool-down effect I was after. I took a dip anyway but didn’t stay in for long before lying on the beach for a bit to dry off and then heading back to my accommodation for a late lunch. After lunch, I thought I would check out Trader Jacks because everyone talks about how cool it is. I was probably there at the wrong time of the day as it was pretty chill but still busy. What was more attractive, though, was the thought of jumping back in the ocean as others were taking a dip there. Luckily, I still had my togs on, so I got in, and the water was much cooler and just what I was after. Satisfied with my swim, I headed back to my accommodation to chill for the afternoon before heading off to chase a sunset.
I found a restaurant bar on the island’s western side situated right on the beach that I thought would be suitable for a sunset drink and dinner. Upon arrival, I explained I didn’t have a table booked but would they have one spare. I was asked to sit at the bar while a table was organised. Having waited for nearly 20 minutes and not even an offer of a drink, I decided to go down and check the beach first. I came back and waited a little longer before catching a someones attention and getting a beer. By this time, the sun was starting to set, so I headed back to the beach to watch it go down. It was not the most impressive sunset, but it was still a goregous location to enjoy a cold beverage. Upon returning to the bar, I asked again if a table was ready, nearly an hour after I had arrived, and they seated me at a table that had been vacant the whole time I was there. After being seated, I waited another 15 minutes, and no one came to ask me if I wanted a drink or to order my dinner, so I let them know I wouldn’t be staying for dinner any longer. Overall, the service had been great on the island, but this place, in particular, was disappointing. Luckily, I had a hangi, which I had purchased early in the day, back at my accommodation waiting for me. It was worth the wait!
DAY 6 – KOKA CRUISE
I had a pretty chill start to my morning before heading down to Muri Beach for my Koka Lagoon Cruise. Another beautiful day in paradise! I was pretty lucky with the weather, although I know the locals would have been grateful for some rain as water sources were getting low. I arrived along with about 150 other people for what I anticipated to be a few hours of fun, and it sure was. The tour kicked off at 10am with a karakia (prayer) before we piled on the three boats and headed off to a snorkelling spot. It was nice to get in the water, and the snorkelling was fun, with a few cool fish to see. It was not the most exciting snorkelling I have done, but the calms were pretty impressive as I had not seen clams so big before, they were massive!
After the snorkelling, we headed to one of the small islands in the Muri lagoon for a BBQ lunch with a selection of salads and fresh fruits. Then, after lunch, it was time for a show that started with how to climb a coconut tree. The guy entertaining us was a real character and engaged the crowd the whole time. He included members of the audience at every opportunity he got and took us all through how to open and grate coconuts and squeeze the cream from them. Then the show finished with some sarong-tying suggestions for the ladies as well as the men and some dance lessons for everyone. A lot of fun and laughs. By the time the show was over, we had about 15 minutes before the boats were due to depart and take us back to shore. The four hours went so fast with very little downtime, which I thought was great. I would definitely recommend a Koko Lagoon Cruise if you are visiting Rarotonga but have also heard that Tama Tours are just as good. I don’t think you could go wrong with either.
Once I had refreshed back at my accommodation, I headed out for a New Year Eve drink with the family friends I had caught up with a couple of days ago. Then it was off to Club Raro for New Year’s Eve dinner and show. I was seated at a table with three other singles, which was great as I got to make some new friends. Everyone was from New Zealand, two gals and a guy who lives in NZ but was originally from Mexico. Dinner was my second BBQ buffet for the day, but this one was another level from lunch. The resort was pretty packed, which was to be expected as restaurants and bars were closed due to it being a Sunday. Resorts were the only night option on this New Years Eve. The evening show finished with a local dancer performing and getting the crowd going before she finished with an impressive fire show. I wrapped up my night at the resort at about 10pm and headed back to my accommodation, where I was greeted with freshly made lamintons. These went down a treat with my cuppa before bed. Such a great way to spend the last day of 2023!
DAY 7 – NEW YEARS DAY
The next morning was pretty chill, I took a drive around the island to see what was open hoping I might find a coffee and cake. I did find a coffee just on midday before the coffee stall was about to close otherwise pretty much everything was closed. My snorkel with turtles tour was booked for 4pm, and it turned out the two ladies I met the night before had also booked the same tour. So we met up at Snorkel Cook Island near the Avaavaro Passage to find quite a large group ready for a snorkel adventure. When I say a large group, my guess was about 30 people. SCI appeared to be the only operators doing tours on NYD so it was no surprise it was a large group. The Avaavaro passage is known to be a dangerous place to swim, there is a ‘no swimming’ sign right on the beach, so there were a few nervous people. But the team at SCI were great and thorough with a 100% safety record. I really loved that a number of the life gaurds were rangatahi, young strong swimmers! They plan their snorkel tours on the tides so the times change each week.
Once we were all kitted out with snorkel gear, we headed down to the beach for a briefing on how to get out to the passage safely. There was a little snorkel test in the shallow water for everyone as we entered the lagoon. It was easy, even for a non-confident swimmer, as there is no current when you snorkel. Once out by the passage, we were told we could snorkel anywhere in a certain area of the passage. Those not so confident stuck to the closer side of the passage, and those more confident could venture to the other side as well. A couple of the lifeguards positioned themselves at the far end of the passage, which marked the ‘do not pass’ zone. Pretty much as soon as I got into the passage, I saw my first turtles. I have seen turtles in the ocean before, but this was my first time swimming with them, and it was amazing!
How much time we spent snorkelling I am not sure but I could have spent much longer. There were so many turtles, I even saw the big mama one we had been told about, she was big! There were far more fish and different species than I had seen the day before but I wasn’t lucky enough to spot any eagle rays which we had been told were around. Once our time was up we headed back into shore walking most of the way, avoiding the passage of course as the current was starting to get stronger as the tide was going out. This snorkelling experience has to be right up there as one of the best I have done so far, right up there with manta rays in Hawaii and Poor Knight Islands in Aotearoa New Zealand. I would recommend this experience, even if you are not a confident swimmer.
My two new friends and I decided to stop somewhere for dinner on the way home and were recommended the Muri Beach Club Resort by a couple who had also been swimming with the turtles. It was a great recommendation! A table right on the beach with our feet in the sand, top service and great food. It was a perfect way to finish off a perfect first day of 2024.
DAY 8 – AITUTAKI
Today I headed to the island of Aitutaki but my flight wasn’t until 1pm so I took my time in the morning before checking out about 10am. With a few hours to kill I decided to do one more loop of the island just to make sure there wasn’t anything else to miss. I am so glad I did as the Marine Eco Centre was open and they did coffee! This is just a little centre with some interesting artefacts and marine creatures. The highlight was seeing real coconut crabs, they are huge! And also a stonefish which the owner was happy to feed a live fish for me to see. They are so still but so fast when they take a fish. It was cool to watch. There was also a five-minute doco on the humpback whales which was interesting if you are into ocean mammals.
There also happened to be a few market stalls set up in Nikao that I had seen on Facebook so I decided to call in there before heading to the airport to see if I could find some lunch to have while I waited for my flight. Lucky had it there was fresh fish poke so that was lunch sorted. I got to the airport, parked my rental car and checked in my luggage. Lunch was great, and the roosters, hens and chicks wandering around the airport kept me entertained until it was time to board my flight. I was flying Air Rarotonga to Aitutaki so wasn’t sure what to expect. Turns out it was a decent size plan, much bigger than I am use to flying to Great Barrier Island despite the distance not being that much further at 40 minutes. It was a pleasant enough flight, $10 for a beer on board and just enough time to drink it before we landed.
I was greeted in Aitutaki by my accommodation host with a gardenia neck ei and a cold coconut to drink. What a welcome! We headed to the accommodation down island in Arutanga. I had one of two units with the other unit occupied by a mum and son from Hungary. I got a quick tour, and inundated with fruit before being left to settle in. So much fruit! Along with the coconut I was still drinking I had about fifteen banana’s, half a dozen passionfruit and a papaya. The temperature was a bit warmer than Rarotonga so I wasn’t going to venture far for the rest of the afternoon, not on foot anyway. But closer to sundown I decided to take a walk to the Piraki Lookout to watch the sunset. It took me about half an hour to get there. The sunset was average but it was nice to get out for a walk, even though it was still pretty warm. As I was watching the sunset I heard a rustle in bushes and looked down to discover a large crab crawling around. I am not used to seeing crabs so far from the ocean and especially not near the top of a decent hill.
DAY 9 – EXPLORING AITUTAKI
I had intentions just to explore Arutanga and take it easy this day so started my morning with a walk down into the town centre. First stop the Police Station to get my scooter licence as I had plans to hire one for a couple of days. The Police Station was open but no one to be found. I waited about 10 minutes but decided to call in on my way back. I was on the hunt for a coffee and found two places but neither had non-dairy milk so at the second place I opted for a mango smoothie instead and sat chatting to a local lady while I drank it. It was getting hot already and I wasn’t feeling up to venturing much more in the heat so I made my way back to my accommodation picking up a few groceries on the way and stopping again at the Police Station. Still no one to be found despite waiting again for about 20 minutes this time. There was a number on the door so I grabbed that and thought I might try again later.
By midday I was getting a bit bored and decided to get a hire car from my host who does hire cars and scooters. With a car I was off exploring the island heading south and then up the eastern side all the way back to the airport and beyond. I found The Boatshed where I stopped for a beer and snack before heading off and discovering Ootu Beach. This was the perfect swimming spot and I spent a few hours enjoying the water and a shady spot to read my book. I was definitely coming back here. The next day was going to be a big one so it was an early night for me.
DAY 10 – TEKING LAGOON TOUR
I booked a tour with Teking Lagoon Tour and was picked up from the roadside at 8.30am to be taken to the boat. I was the first to arrive and had a bit of time to kill before the other guests arrived but was entertained by loads of small crabs scurrying in and out of their holes along the shoreline. Before long everyone was ready to go and I was surprised to learn I was the only Kiwi and there was only two Australians, a couple from Queensland. Everyone else was from all over the world including Canada, Portugal, Argentina, Italy and Hawaii. Teking was actually what the boats captain called himself and he was our tour guide for the day. The first two stops were snorkelling spots which included giant trevally, a shipwreck and enormous clams. I was in ocean heaven! I could have stayed in the water all day entertained by the sea life. But we had to keep moving and headed next to Honeymoon Island. This was a gorgeous little island surrounded by white sand and a tuff of green in the middle probably no larger than a rugby field, if that. It was honestly a scene out of a movie or on a postcard. It was truly stunning! We were dropped off to stroll along the white sand before being picked up and taken to the island next door for lunch. The spread was plentiful and more than enough to feed the crowd of twenty. The bbq included fish, chicken, banana and eggplant accompanied by a variety of salads and fresh fruit.
After lunch we had one more snorkel stop with the highlight at this stop being the purple coral, a few more colourful clams and of course more pretty fish. We spent a decent amount of time in the water before heading to One Foot Island. Having heard about this island encouraged me to book this tour in the first place but I naively didn’t anticipate the crowds. There were a couple of large tour groups enjoying the island when we arrived. Before disembarking our captain got out his One Foot Island stamp and proceeded to stamp passports for those who had them. Of course, I was prepared for this and ensured my passport got marked. The majority of the crowds were congregated around the boats and after a short stroll, I discovered a couple from my tour enjoying the beach on the other side all to themselves. So I decided to crash their party and spent most of my time in the water there before heading back to our boat for a 3pm departure. From here it was back to the main island bypassing another island where we stopped for a few minutes to learn a little more history. Overall, it was the most stunning day and the absolute hightlight of my whole time in the Cook Islands. Aitutaki is breathtakingly beautiful.
DAY 11 – OOTU BEACH, FRIENDS & KARAOKE
Today I got a scooter so I was off to enjoy some beach time and headed back to Ootu Beach. Just before the beach I called into Koru Cafe for a coffee and some breakfast. Then it was straight down to the beach and into the water. It was pretty quiet, hardly anyone there which was perfect. I spent the morning with my book moving between the water and the shade just as I had two days before. Then just before midday a decent shower of rain arrived so I packed up quick and ducked into the restaurant bar next door. Here I ran into the Australian couple from the day before so I grab a drink and joined them. Not long after that another couple from the tour the day before turned up and before I knew it the five of us had been sitting there for nearly two hours. We all decided a dip was desired so another swim it was before I left them to it and headed to The Pacific Resort for a late lunch. I just wanted to check out the resort which was impressive as was the accommodation price. Not quite as open to day visitors as the resorts in Rarotonga with the pool and beach access limited to staying guests only but it was still lovely to sit by the beach and enjoy a meal and cold beverage.
Later on that evening I headed back to The Lagoon Restaurant for dinner and ended up dining with another solo traveler from Switzerland. She was there to visit three islands, including Atiu. She was great company, and after dinner, we headed to The Boatshed as we had been told it was Karaoke night. There were a lot of familar faces at The Boatshed and it was a great night, it felt very local. I must have headed off about 10.30pm and made my way home on my scooter ready to dodge crabs as I heard they come out on the roads at night when it is quiet. Turns out I only had to dodge one but I did get the pleasure of a beautiful starry night sky. This was the first I had seen the whole time I had been in the Cook Islands as the nights had been cloudy.
DAY 12 – OOTU BEACH, MAUNA PU & CULTURAL SHOW
My plan today was to go back to Koru Cafe for breakfast before heading back to Ootu beach for the day. I got to the cafe and ran into a new friend I had made the night before from Auckland so sat down and had breakfast with her. She had already ordered and when her ika mata came out I decided I was having the same thing as it looked so good! Not sure it is normally a breakfast meal but I didn’t care, I was making the most of all the ika mata I could eat while I was there. After breakfast I stuck to my plan and spent about the next four hours just hanging at Ootu Beach, readying my book, swimming and popping in occasionally to the Blue Lagoon restaurant for a juice or a bite to eat.
Around mid-afternoon I decided to head to the top of Mauna Pu, the highest peak on the island. It was hot but the hike wasn’t too far up the hill, 20 mins it said. The last little climb was steep and with the heat I was quickly looking for the shade once I reached the top. The only shade was behind a small shed that contained a Vodafone box, but that was all I needed. The views, although not spectacular, were worth the climb and I had the lookout to myself for a good 20 minutes. It wasn’t a busy walk but I did pass three people going up and then one at the lookout and another walking down. So people definitely head up there.
Once Mauna Pu was ticked off I headed back to my accommodation for a shower as I was heading to Avatea Cafe for dinner. This place had been recommended by three people the day before so I thought I better check it out. But first I decided to head to Paradise Cove for happy hour at The Cove Bar. I went for a cocktail which I enjoyed in the company of a couple from Christchurch. I had planned to dine at Avatea Cafe with a couple of women from Germany whom I had first met on the snorkelling tour a few days before. They had arrived before me and it was their third night dining there so they had lots of good recommendations and talked me into the Taco Trio. I had ika mata for an entree which was much larger than I anticipated so by the time my taco’s came I couldn’t eat them all. I was able to take leftovers home with me though which was breakfast the next morning. The food at Avatea was some of the best I have had on my whole trip and can see why this place is recommended. Definitely a good choice.
After dinner, my friends and I headed to Tamanu Resort for their Saturday night show. I had originally tried to book in here for the dinner and show but it was fully booked. However, the staff at reception said we were welcome to come just for the show at no cost. Upon arrival, we did purchase a drink at the bar before heading to the show down by the beach. There wasn’t any seating as the dining guests took up all of those but I wasn’t going to complain to see a cultural show for free. The performers were all young, mostly rangatahi with a few tamariki performing as well. They were accompanied by a fantastic band that consisted of percussion and string instruments. It was worth turning up for.
DAY13 – BACK TO RAROTONGA
It was time to leave Aitutaki after five wonderful nights. If I haven’t said it already, this island is next-level beautiful and a ‘must do’ if visiting the Cook Islands. Even if you don’t stay, I think the day trip would also be worth it.
I had a quiet morning, just packing, tidying and trying to finish my book before checking out. My hosts dropped me off at the airport leaving me with a cold fresh coconut to drink while I waited. They were wonderful hosts and looked after me well. The plane was pretty much full flying back to Rarotonga and just after 1pm we were landing. I had booked in to stay at The Edgewater Resort. I thought I would splash out for my last night, I don’t think I have ever stayed in a resort before. It is not my style of accommodation, because I would rather spend my money on other things while I am travelling such as experiences. I definitely couldn’t have afforded to included Aitutaki in my trip if I had stayed in a resort in Rarotonga for the week I was there.
Finding a taxi at the airport was easy. Actually, the taxi found me. Staff at Edgewater said just to go to the meet and greet stand and they would help, but a taxi driver approached me first. I arrived at the resort just after 1.30pm, a little early for check-in at 2pm, but my room was ready, so I was good to go. The first thing that hit me, as soon as I walked into my lovely room, was the air conditioning, it was bliss! So this is how the other half live, haha. I didn’t stay too long, though, before I got into my swimwear and headed to the restaurant to make sure I was booked in for the BBQ Buffet dinner. Since I was there, I figured I might as well have a cocktail and take in views and the vibe. But it was hot so it didn’t sit around for long, just enough time to enjoy the cocktail before finding access to the beach. There was a swimming pool but I wasn’t getting in the pool when there was a beautiful clear ocean water to swim in. Besides, the pool was full of kids as this resort is a popular one for families.
There were quite a few people swimming in the lagoon, snorkelling as well, which told me it was a great location to enjoy the marine environment. After my swim, I headed back to my air-conditioned room to chill for a while before dinner. Dinner was at 6pm so I headed down a little bit before to enjoy a wine by the beach. It was pretty busy, with very few tables free outside. Luckily, I had booked dinner as there didn’t seem to be many spare tables inside either. Dinner was great, pretty standard for a BBQ Buffet which I had by then enjoyed a few. Plenty of good salads and meat, including lamb chops, pork ribs and fish.
My dinner table was in a great location where I was able to look out for the sunset and see the small band playing some great music. I was treated to a gorgeous sunset just after 7pm, such a treat for my last night on the island as I hadn’t seen many sunsets. I hung around until the band finished up around 8.30pm. Turns out it was a father and two of his sons, his oldest and youngest of nine boys, who had just one sister. They have been playing at this resort for many years, he said, and the youngest son, Abraham, was incredible on the Ukulele and well-known for his talent. And that is pretty much where the night ended for me. I went to bed early so I could rise early and enjoy the last few hours of my resort stay the next morning.
DAY 14 – MY LAST DAY
I wanted to make the most of my last day on the island, so I got up early for a walk and swim at the beach. It was nice and quiet, with no one on the beach or in the water, except for two kayakers paddling the lagoon. A great way to start my day. After a shower, I headed to breakfast, included with my stay, to find a great selection of fruit, bread (toast), cereals, muffins, as well as juices and tea/coffee. More than enough to fuel my day. After breakfast, it was time to pack and check out before 10am as I had booked into the resort spa for a few treatments before I left. I was able to leave my luggage at reception while I enjoyed two hours at the spa. My treatments included an after-sun wrap, a glow-and-go facial, as well as a foot reflexology massage. Definitely a treat! After all the sun I had, my body definitely appreciated the hydration from the wrap and facial, so it was a great way to finish off a wonderful two weeks in the Cook Islands.
Once my spa was done, I had time to enjoy one last ika mata dish at the resort restaurant before catching the public bus to the airport. I still had a few rides left on my concession to use, hence I decided to catch the bus with my luggage. If heading to the airport with luggage, the bus has an extra cost. I was told $2, but due to having a concession card, it was one extra ride. The night before I had checked in online, so I just had to do a bag drop at the airport and then wait around for boarding. I met up with a new friend who I knew was heading home to NZ on the same flight. We both checked out the airport shops to see if there was any last-minute shopping to be had, and I spontaneously bought an ukulele. Now to find some lessons and learn.
HIGHLIGHTS
The whole trip was a highlight but what I enjoyed the most was the snorkelling. Swimming with the turtles with Snorkel Cook Islands was something special and I would highly recommend it as a ‘must do’ if staying in Rarotonga. The day out with Teking Lagoon Tours in Aitutaki was my favourite day overall though. For someone who loves the ocean and outdoors this has to be one of top travel days ever.
Other highlights would have to include the friendly locals, the good food and especially all the fresh fruit! If I was going to go back I would stay in an Air Bnb again and might also consider the Rarotonga Backpackers but if I was going to choose a resort then the Sanctuary Rarotonga is the one that came most highly recommended by people I met as the best child-free resort.
Other articles that may interest you:
THREE WEEKS SOLO IN HAWAII – O’AHU AND THE BIG ISLAND
VISITING JAMAICA AS A SOLO FEMALE
WALKS, HIKING AND HUTS ON GREAT BARRIER ISLAND
ABOUT THE WRITER – Karllie is a solo budget traveller with a passion for inspiring others to explore her homeland of Aotearoa New Zealand and beyond. Having travelled to many places around the world she still believes there is nowhere more amazing and beautiful as home. In her 40s, Karllie has a background in education and enjoys the outdoors, especially hiking. Find out more about Karllie…
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