Driving the Great Alpine Highway is an incredible experience of contrasting landscapes from the East Coast to the Wild West. This road trip is essential on any South Island travel itinerary. Easily achieved in one day you will find no shortage of activities to enjoy along the way. This has to be one of my favourite one-day road trips in Aotearoa New Zealand.

PLEASE NOTE: Driving through Arthur’s Pass along the Great Alpine Highway during the winter can be challenging. It is recommended that vehicles carry snow chains between May and October. It is always important to check road conditions on the NZ Transport website before you depart.

CANTERBURY PLAINS

The best part of the Canterbury Plains is the anticipation of reaching the snow-capped alps that line the horizon. Most drivers will start the Great Alpine Highway on State Highway 73 from Christchurch but it is worth considering the Old West Coast Road which nears the Waimakariri River before joining State Highway 73 again at Waddington. Springfield is the last town before you hit the Southern Alps and well known for a number of reasons, some better than others. The Springfield Store and Cafe made news headlines with the cafe owner described as New Zealand’s rudest woman but the cafe also boasts award-winning pies. Maybe call in and discover for yourself how great the hospitality and pies are. You will also find a giant donut sculpture in honor of the donut loving Homer Simpson who lives in a town with the same name.

KURA TĀWHITI – CASTLE HILL

You can’t travel the Great Alpine Highway without stopping at Castle Hill. It is a geological wonderland with its limestone, mudstone, sandstone, and tuffs. The rock formations look so out of place but provide an amazing landscape and environment for some of our special flora and fauna. This place is also rich in Māori History and very special to local iwi, Ngai Tahu (South Island Māori tribe). Kura Tāwhiti means “the treasure from a distant land”, referring to the kumara that was once cultivated in this region.

When you stop here give yourself at least 30-60 minutes to wander up through the rocks and on to one of the many lookouts which offer spectacular views in all directions. This is a popular tourist stop so the best time to visit is early morning or later afternoon if you want to avoid the crowds.

CAVE STREAM ADVENTURES

Just a few minutes up the road from Castle Hill is Cave Stream, another fantastic geological feature that offers the opportunity for a novice caving experience if you are keen on a little adventure. From the main carpark, you will find the track to the north leads to the upstream cave entrance while the track to the south takes you downstream and where you can enter the cave. Completing the whole circuit includes making your way upstream through the cave which is nearly 600m long.

You don’t need any caving experience which makes this a perfect adventure for many. However, a reasonable level of fitness, good footwear, warm clothing, and reliable light sources are a must. You will get wet with the deepest part of the cave near the beginning. An average adult can expect to get wet to waste deep. Give yourself a good two hours here if you want to include the cave and make sure to have some warm dry clothes to get into at the end. This really is a fun adventure and well worth the stop.

ARTHUR’S PASS VILLAGE

About 40 minutes on from Cave Stream you will find yourself in the heart of Arthur’s Pass. The village is the perfect place to stop for lunch and if you are lucky you might spot a cheeky Kea (native alpine parrot). It is worth taking a wander around to acquaint yourself with this gorgeous alpine village. You will find cafe’s, accommodation, gifts, and souvenirs as well as the visitors center with staff who can help you with any local information.

DEVIL’S PUNCHBOWL WATERFALL

Just up from the village you can park the car and walk through a lush beech forest to the stunning Devil’s Punchbowl Waterfall. At 131m the falls are truly impressive and worth the stairs up to the viewing platform at the bottom of the falls. The track is a short easy walk and shouldn’t take more than 20 minutes one way. Keep an eye out for the friendly native birds pīwakawaka(fantails) and tomtits.

OTIRA VIADUCT AND GORGE LOOKOUTS

If you didn’t spot a Kea while in Arthur’s Pass village then you may have more luck in either of these two spots, the Otira Viaduct Lookout and the Otira Gorge Rock Shelter Lookout. Even if you don’t get to see Kea it is still worth the stop for the views. The viaduct is a modern piece of engineering spanning 440 meters over a stretch of State Highway 73. It replaced a dangerous winding road that was often prone to avalanches, slips, and closures. The gorge lookout offers a view of the rock shelter, built to protect the highway from continuous falling rocks. The kea frequent here in both locations. They are curious, cheeky and can be destructive so be aware. And above all else please don’t feed them. There are plenty of signs to remind you.

OTIRA, THE PLACE OF TRAVELLERS

Just a little further on, across the Otira River is the settlement of Otira. Otira translates to ‘the place of travellers’ and the perfect place it is for travellers to pause and rest. The settlement was originally a stop for the Cobb and Co stagecoach which ran from Canterbury to the West Coast. Although there is not a great deal to see it is worth calling in just to learn about the history and take a look at the few remaining original buildings. This includes the postmaster’s house and the post office which has been turned into an art gallery exhibiting world-class art. And you can’t drive by without noticing the beautifully restored Otira Stage Hotel where you will find accommodation, a restaurant cafe, and some well preserved historic items.

KŪMARA, THE GATEWAY TO THE WEST COAST

Worth a mention, the town of Kūmara was one of the last sites of the gold rush and is now a popular stop on the West Coast Wilderness Trail. The town grew to a population of over 4000 during its gold rush era but only a few hundred populate the town today. At its peak population, there were about 50 pubs. They eventually all closed down but in 2012 one pub reopened the Theatre Royal Hotel. At the hotel, you will find accommodation as well as a restaurant and bar.

THE WILD WEST COAST

Just out of Kūmara you will come to Kūmara Junction and the Wild West Coast. Within 20 minutes of the junction, you will find yourself in Greymouth or Hokitika. From the junction, Greymouth is right and Hokitika is left. Another 40 minutes on from Greymouth is the Punakaiki Pancake Rocks. I found Hokitika a great place to base myself for exploring the West Coast and that is another story for another time.

Other articles that may interest you:
A TWO WEEK SOUTH ISLAND ROAD TRIP
FREE THINGS TO DO IN CHRISTCHURCH
MARLBOROUGH WINE TOUR REVIEW

ABOUT THE WRITER – Karllie is a solo budget traveller with a passion for inspiring others to explore her homeland of Aotearoa New Zealand and beyond. Having travelled to many places around the world she still believes there is nowhere more amazing and beautiful as home. In her 40s, Karllie has a background in education and enjoys the outdoors, especially hiking. Find out more about Karllie…

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