YOLO SOLO

MY SOUTH ISLAND ROAD TRIP 2020

The legend of Maui identifies the South Island as Te Waka a Maui (Maui’s Canoe). It is from this canoe that Maui fished up Te Ika a Maui (Maui’s Fish), the North Island. Te Waipounamu translates to ‘the greenstone waters’ and is the name given to the South Island of Aotearoa New Zealand by early Polynesians. Kai Tahu are the tangata whenua / iwi (original people / tribe) of Te Waipounamu with the exception of the very northern tips.

South Island Road Trip

TWO WEEKS IN A CAMPERVAN – MILFORD SOUND TO PICTON AND EVERYTHING INBETWEEN

Having had three trips cancelled this year, due to COVID, I was really looking forward to this South Island road trip. The fantastic cheap deals going with Tourism Holding Limited (THL), who own Britz, Maui and Mighty campers, were irresistible. I ended up with a four-berth Britz campervan, which was perfect. Not too big but plenty of room for me to spread out. During this trip, Auckland was in Alert Level 3, which meant even fewer people exploring the South Island. It was such a treat as I love nothing more than travelling without crowds. The weather played it’s part most days allowing me to enjoy some of the best that Te Waipounamu has to offer.

SOUTH ISLAND ROAD TRIP DAY 1 – ROTORUA TO MOUNT SOMERS

South Island Road Trip
Tongariro National Park

The original plan was to fly out of Auckland but with our capital city in Level 3 that wasn’t possible so I cancelled my flights and got a one-way flight from Rotorua to Christchurch. At that stage I wasn’t worried about getting back to the North Island, I would figure that out later. My priority was to ensure my South Island road trip got underway. I departed Rotorua with blue skies all the way to Wellington. The view over Tongariro National Park was spectacular and I could clearly see as far as Taranaki. What a gorgeous day to be travelling south! Wellington to Christchurch included a few low clouds but it didn’t matter too much as I didn’t end up on the right side of the plane for mountain views.

It was about 1.30pm by the time I arrived at Christchurch airport. It was straight to the taxi stand to find a ride and collect my campervan. I was so excited! This was my first time hiring a campervan so it was all new to me. The staff at THL made it all very easy and before long I was away. After stocking up with groceries in Christchurch, I headed straight for Mt Somers. It was a last-minute decision to head to Mt Somers. Changing my flights had resulted in arriving to Christchurch later than planned so I didn’t want to be driving too far.

I had decided to check in at Mt Somers Holiday Park so I could get a powered site. It was likely that I would be using powered sites every night so I could have my little heater going to keep me warm. The temperature that night was expected to drop to -1 and I don’t do cold very well at all. When I checked in, I briefly met the lovely holiday park owners Georgie and Peter. Later I discovered their interesting story of how they had left the rat race of the city for a more balanced lifestyle with their two children. It was definitely my kind of story, good on them!

South Island Road Trip
Mount Somers Holiday Park

Being my first night there was some setting up, unpacking and familiarising with my new home. I had a small fridge, a microwave and a gas stovetop. However, I didn’t end up using the gas at all. I found it easier to cook at the campground kitchens and figured I might as well use their gas instead of mine. There was also a kettle, toaster and electric heater so I did breakfast most mornings in the campervan. Because the campervan was a four-berth I was able to take the mattress from the top double bed and add it to my double bed for extra padding. This was going to be my home for the next two weeks so I was going to make it as comfortable as possible! I ended up leaving my bed made up the whole time never bothering to pack it up each day. The campervan was awesome and had everything I needed except a wine glass. Luckily, I found one in the holiday park kitchen.

SOUTH ISLAND ROAD TRIP DAY 2 – MOUNT SOMERS TO TEKAPO

South Island Road Trip
Mount Somers at dawn

I got up early and managed to catch the gorgeous glow from the sunrise. It was such a great start to the first full day of my south island road trip.

I decided to head out to Lake Clearwater after chatting with Georgie who had given me a few ideas on what to see in the area. When I stopped at Hakatere Station I realised the temperature was down to -5. It was so cold! This was a cool little place with some interesting history worth stopping for. Lake Clearwater was a little further down the road and upon arriving I realised I was experiencing a hoar frost. Everything was frozen white. This gorgeous little settlement is made up of holiday baches. Probably a busy summer location as it is just 40 minutes from Mt Somers Village. The drive out there was so worth it just to see the frozen landscape. I had thought about going out to Mt Sunday (aka Edoras from Lord of the Rings) but decided there were other places I wanted to get to before the end of the day.

South Island Road Trip
Lake Clearwater

My next stop was The Staveley Store and Station Farm Shop for a good flat white and delicious pear and chocolate chip muffin. Rakaia Gorge was my next destination but a sign to Sharplin Falls took me on a short detour. I am easily distracted by short detours, not always a good thing! Unfortunately, I didn’t get to see Sharplin Falls as apparently the track is closed but I now know exactly where the track to the Pinnacles Hut starts. Yes, the South Island has a Pinnacles Hut too! I would love to come back and do the full Mt Somers circuit at another time. Rakaia Gorge was in the opposite direction to where I was heading but I thought it was worth a visit and I was right. I was treated to some spectacular views of the maunga Opuke more commonly known as Mt Hutt.

South Island Road Trip
Rakaia Gorge

My next stop was Fairlie for a recommended Fairlie Bakehouse pie. I have heard many times that their pies are amazing. Like many Kiwi, I love a good pie but I don’t eat farmed meat or dairy. However, I was willing to forgo that just to try one. As it turned out they had a vegan pie, curry lentil and potato, and it was delicious! Then to put a damper on my Fairlie experience, I got stopped by a cop just leaving town who had spotted me picking up my phone to check the time while I was driving away. Silly me I should know better.

South Island Road Trip
The Church of the Good Sheppard, Tekapo

From Fairlie, it wasn’t far to Tekapo. Lake Tekapo Motels and Holiday Park was my stop for the night with lake views out my back window. So picture perfect! It was a cloudy night so I didn’t get to experience the incredible night skies but I did go and enjoy a nice hot soak at the Tekapo Springs.  I love hot pools and have experienced many of the well-known ones. Tekapo Springs definitely merits a visit.

SOUTH ISLAND ROAD TRIP DAY 3 – TEKAPO TO ARROWTOWN

South Island Road Trip
Lake Pukaki

Today took forever but that’s what happens when I don’t have a plan! I did have a plan but that went out the window when I woke to rain and a forecast of bad weather at Aoraki Mt Cook. Reluctantly, I decided to skip the Hooker Valley walk and head for Arrowtown. It wasn’t long before I caught sight of Lake Pūkaki surrounded by snow-capped mountains, it was so picturesque! But no sight of Aoraki though hiding under the rain clouds.

I stopped at the Pūkaki Visitors Centre for some Mt Cook Alpine salmon but little did I know that just up the road was the High Country Salmon farm. Here you can feed the salmon and enjoy a delicious meal from the cafe. I had another amazing pie – lemon, salmon and kumara. It just might have been better than yesterday’s pie. Feeding the salmon was fun and it was good to see this farming method up close. South Island freshwater farmed salmon is one of the most environmentally sustainable meats (land or water) you can eat in Aotearoa.

South Island Road Trip
Clay Cliffs, Omarama

Next stop was the Omarama Clay Cliffs.  I would never have stopped if it wasn’t for someone on my Facebook page recommending it. What a great place to visit! I can’t believe I had never heard of it, there were so many people there.

I still had a couple of hours to Arrowtown so I didn’t make many more stops except for signposted views which included the Lindis Pass summit, Cromwell and the Roaring Meg. It was after 6pm by the time I got to Arrowtown so it was a quiet early night for me.

SOUTH ISLAND ROAD TRIP DAY 4 – ARROWTOWN TO TE ANAU

South Island Road Trip
AJ Hackett Bungy – Nevis Swing

Well, today’s highlight had to be the Nevis Swing at the AJHackett Bungy Nevis Station near Queenstown. It is the biggest swing in the world with a three hundred meter drop that swings across the Nevis Canyon. From the first moment I heard about it, I knew this was the adrenaline thrill for me. A bungy has never interested me but the swing looked exhilarating and it was! It took a little courage to book and commit but once I had I knew I would do it. At no time did I think of backing out and I would definitely do it again.

Before leaving Queenstown I made sure I stopped for a popular Queenstown Fergburger. What a treat to discover they did a wild deer burger called Sweet Bambi. A treat because I don’t eat farmed meat but happy to eat it from the wild. It was tasty! And then I had to stop at Patagonia Chocolate Queenstown for another treat or three. So yummy!

South Island Road Trip
Queenstown

My destination for the day was Te Anau and I had decided to book in for two nights at the Te Anau Top 10 Holiday Park. Not long after arriving I discovered that parked in the campervan right next to me was an ex-student and her husband. What were the chances! They invited me to join them for dinner, so of course I did. I knew they had taken over the dairy in Hahei, it was awesome to hear how their new little business was going and how Coromandel life was treating them. I look forward to visiting them next time I head to Hot Water Beach.

SOUTH ISLAND ROAD TRIP DAY 5 – PIOPIOTAHI / MILFORD SOUND

South Island Road Trip
Piopiotahi – Milford Sound

So the reason for spending two nights in Te Anau was so I could take the whole day to visit Milford Sound. What an amazing day although a very long one! I didn’t leave Te Anau until 10am as I ended up spending much of the morning organising a few extra days with my campervan and a flight home. All sorted, yay!

I thought it was the Milford Sound itself that was spectacular but the drive into and out of Milford Sound was just as marvellous! If you are planning a trip and cruise at Milford Sound it is absolutely worth taking the whole day and driving so you can stop at all the amazing views and attractions along the way.

On the way to Milford Sound, I stopped at Eglinton Valley and Mirror Lakes. I had plans to also stop and do the Nature Walk but I completely missed it. Once I got closer to Milford there weren’t a lot of places to stop due to avalanche and rock fall warning signs. There was road works and a few slips still being repaired but overall though the road was good and not a problem to drive in my campervan.

South Island Road Trip
Seal Rock, Milford Sound

I got to Milford Sounds with time to have some lunch and take a little stroll. Not a lot to see other than some accommodation, a cafe and the visitors centre. The complex that houses the cruise operators is impressive though. I wasn’t expecting such a large complex. There are several cruise companies with some very big boats. However, I decided to go with Cruise Milford who had a smaller boat than most but came highly recommended. They didn’t disappoint!

The cruise took just under two hours and showed us all the sights the fiord had to offer between the wharf and the Tasman Sea. It was an overcast day so no raging water falls or bright blue skies but it was still an incredibly dramatic sight. Something that really impacted me was the fresh air, I couldn’t inhale enough of it! We were treated to a sighting of three Fiordland Crested Penguins, some of the rarest penguins in the world. And of course, there were plenty of NZ Fur Seals. While I was walking back to the car park I also spotted a Kererū and a Kākā. Such a privilege to see so many wonderful native creatures in their natural habitats. For more on my cruise experience check out the review I wrote for the Big Bus Tour & Travel Guide.

South Island Road Trip
Kea

I left Milford Sound about 4pm and it wasn’t long before I made my first stop, just before the Homer Tunnel, to check out four cheeky Kea. Some were juveniles but they were all keen to hang around and entertain anyone who stopped to give them some attention. I just love Kea and could watch them for hours.

There were a few more photo stops after that and then I spotted the Nature Walk at Cascade Creek! It was 5.15pm and the walk said 45 minutes so I put a torch in my pocket and headed off. What a magical place! The moss-covered bush was so lush and it led all the way to Lake Glenn. I am sure I had the whole lake to myself, it was so quiet and peaceful I could have stayed for much longer except that it was going to be dark soon. Not long before I got to the end of the track a little South Island Robin decided to say hello. So cute! I am so glad I spotted the Nature Walk as I had all but given up on the idea of finding it.

South Island Road Trip
Nature Walk, Cascade Creek

My last stop was the Eglinton Valley again as the fog was setting in and the light was fading making for a fantastic photo opportunity. From there it was still another 40 minutes to Te Anau so it was after 7pm but the time I got back to the Holiday Park. What a day!

SOUTH ISLAND ROAD TRIP DAY 6 – TE ANAU TO WANAKA

South Island Road Trip
Antipodes Kākāriki

The day started off a bit special with a visit to the Te Anau Bird Sanctuary. This is just a little sanctuary with entry by koha/donation. They have some real little treasures including South Island Kākā, Antipodes Kākāriki and Takahē. I had never seen Takahē before so that was a real treat. Before leaving Te Anau I stopped for some a coffee and something to eat on the go and found a delicious wild venison pie. I hope I have the place right but I believe it was the Bailiez Cafe. Both the coffee and pie were good!

From Te Anau I headed back towards Queenstown for a tour and wine tasting at Gibbston Valley. I had no idea so many grapes were grown in this valley with world award-winning Pinot Noir the speciality. Our tour guide Adrian was fantastic and shared a wealth of knowledge with our tour group. The wines produce here are not my normal preferences but I did really like the Pinot Noir Reserve. Gibbston Valley is a full amenities stop with tastings, tours, a restaurant, a shop full of delicious treats, accommodation and bike hire. I decided to hire a bike for a couple of hours and pedal down to the Kawerau Bridge and see if any crazies were doing a bungy. Sure enough two brave young ladies took the leap. I’m not that brave!

South Island Road Trip
Kawerau Bridge

Upon returning my bike I headed on to Wanaka and pulled up at the lake with the back of my camper facing the water and mountains and enjoyed a snooze in the warm sun. It was bliss! I decided to stop here the night with plans to head to Fox or Franz Joseph the next day.

SOUTH ISLAND ROAD TRIP DAY 7 – WANAKA TO FRANZ JOSEPH

South Island Road Trip
Wanaka Tree

Today started early with a short walk to the Wanaka Tree for sunrise. I met a friendly family from Tauranga on the way and then when I got to the Wanaka Tree I met a traveller from Hamilton. He had set up his camera on a tripod hoping for some great morning light like I was. Turned out he was quite the photographer having done several trips overseas photographing wildlife. His photos of African and Indian animals were amazing!

Before I left Wanaka I called into the Wanaka Lavender Farm, which was impressive! I had been to the one in Kaikoura and it turns out there is a family connection with the two. This one is bigger and better with an incredible range of products and some super cute farm animals. The end of February is the best time to visit if you want to see the lavender in full boom.

South Island Road Trip
Wanaka Lavendar Farm

It was nearly 11am before I left Wanaka and I hoped to see both glaciers before the days end. But so many sights distracted me on the way! There were lake views and waterfalls and then the Blue Pools caught my attention. I gave up nearly an hour to walk in and see those. They were very much worth it though!

I got to the Fox Glacier carpark at 4pm thinking it was a 15-minute walk to the viewpoint. It was more like 45 minutes. It looks like you might have once been able to drive to a top car park but it is no longer possible due to some slips. The walk is an easy one though and it was nice to stretch my legs. The late afternoon light was perfect and I think the best time of day to see this retreating glacier, the longest of the two at
approximately 13km long.

South Island Road Trip
Fox Glacier

I decided to stop in Franz Joseph for the night hoping to get to that glacier in the morning but the weather was still not looking good.

SOUTH ISLAND ROAD TRIP DAY 8 – FRANZ JOSEPH TO CHARLESTON

South Island Road Trip
Tuatara at the West Coast Wildlife Centre

I woke to rain so there was no chance I was going to see Franz Joseph Glacier. Instead, I decided to visit the West Coast Wildlife Centre where they have the rare Rowi Kiwi. Never heard of them right? Neither had I, hence they are rare! And to make it even more special the kiwi enclosure is an open one, no glass wall between you and the kiwi, just a low fence. They had two big chicks running around, foraging all over. One kiwi spent a lot of time going back and forth along the fence right in front of me. I could have reached out and touched it. It was so amazing to be so close! There was also a tuatara enclosure with one big male and five females. It was like playing where’s Wally trying to spot them. I found four in total, which I thought was pretty good.

South Island Road Trip
Town of Ross

I had no real plans other than to head to Westport. I have seen a bit of the West Coast already so I was keen to experience something new. My first stop was the small town of Ross. I nearly drove straight through but a walkway sign caught my attention so I drove around the block and came back to the sign. Turned out there was a one hour walk up into the hills through an old gold mining area so I decided to check it out. The Water Race Walkway it is called. A really nice walk with some interesting features along the way. When I got back to the start I realised there were a few historic buildings and the Ross Goldfields Information & Heritage Centre which is home to a souvenir shop and museum. You can even hire panning equipment and go try your luck panning for gold. A very friendly face greeted me and it turned out they was originally from Whakatāne, which is close to home for me. I am so glad I stopped and went back, a great little find!

From there it was a quick stop in Hokitika for some lunch and then the Punakaiki Rocks, both places I had been to before. It was nice to be greeted by a beautiful big rainbow at the rocks though. And being late afternoon the light was great. A different experience from the last time I was there.

South Island Road Trip
Punakaiki Rocks

I decided to stop for the night in Charleston, just before Westport. I had read that there can be seals down at the beach and the chance of seeing blue penguins and sometimes dolphins. What I didn’t realise was that there is a big tour operator there, Underworld Adventures. They do some amazing looking rafting and glow worm tours. They take minimum bookings of two so unfortunately, there wasn’t the option to book a tour as they didn’t’ seem to have any other bookings for me to join. And that is about all there is in Charleston, other than the campground of course. I wasn’t sure where the next day was going to take me but I decided to change my original plans and skip Karamea and Takaka. I thought I might venture straight to Blenheim via SH63 and the Waiau Valley.

SOUTH ISLAND ROAD TRIP DAY 9 – CHARLESTON TO NELSON LAKES

South Island Road Trip
Charleston

My day started off in Charleston with a stroll to the beach for sunrise. This place is the Wild West Coast one imagines! It was a beautiful morning and a great start to the day. And then I got a txt message from Air NZ to say my flight from Auckland to Tauranga on Sunday was cancelled. Not sure what I was going to do but I decided I would figure it out later.

Fight dilemma quickly forgotten I headed to Westport with stops at Cape Foulwind to see the seal colony and lighthouse. The seal colony was amazing but the lighthouse was not one of the best I have seen. However, it is another NZ lighthouse ticked off. Westport is an interesting place that I didn’t think I need to spend too much time in.  I stopped long enough to have lunch, grab some groceries and refuel.

South Island Road Trip
Cape Foulwind Seal Colony

Then it was straight to Nelson Lakes without getting distracted, yeah right! I needed to get to the visitors centre by 4pm so I could book a powered site at DOCs Kerr Bay Campsite. I did pretty well and only got distracted once by the Lyell Walkway which also happens to be one end of the Old Ghost Road. If I had time I would have done one of the short walks there but I didn’t.  A useful find though as Old Ghost Road is a track that has been recommended a number of times. While I was there I got further distracted talking to a guy who once upon a time skippered a sailing boat out to Aotea Great Barrier. They use to do 14-day trips with teens. So interesting the connections you make talking to strangers!

As I had already mentioned, my original thoughts were to check out Karamea and spend a night in the Takaka/Motueka area. However, I had been on the road every day and the thought of staying put for a few days feels like a good idea. So I decided to take the quickest route to Blenheim from the west coast which is via Nelson Lakes. I was so glad I did! Lake Rotoiti is my kind of place with hikes that could keep me entertained for days! Days I didn’t have but a night or two would give me a chance to get in a decent walk for sure.

SOUTH ISLAND ROAD TRIP DAY 9 & 10 – LAKE ROTOITI, NELSON LAKES

South Island Road Trip
Lake Rotoiti

Why did no one tell me how incredibly beautiful Lake Rotoiti and the surrounding area is! What an amazing stay at Nelson Lakes. I can’t wait to go back and explore more one summer. Although, a few people have put me off a summer visit with horror stories about the horrendous sandflies.

I arrived at about 3.30pm, just in time to catch the visitors centre before it closed at 4pm and book a powered campsite. Kerr Bay Campsite has to be the nicest DOC campsite I have ever seen. Fully equipped with a large cooking shelter that included gas hobs, hot water zip and plenty of room for cooking and cleaning. There was a laundry room and hot showers including a wheelchair accessible shower and toilet in one. And it’s right on Lake Rotoiti.

South Island Road Trip
Purple Pouch Fungi

After I had parked up and plugged in I went for an little wander to familiarise myself with the area and ended up going for a 4km walk. It was the Loop Track which took you through some beautiful beech forest and I found some purple mushrooms! I discovered they are called purple pouch fungi. Very cool and something I had never seen before.

It was nearly dark by the time I got back to the campervan and there was only one other resident for the night in a tent. Mad I thought as the temperature was expected to drop to -4 overnight. And it did! I woke about 5.30am and wandered outside into the cold to see the brilliant clear night sky. And by dawn it was evident there had been snow overnight with the hills nicely coated. The lake was like glass and the morning reflection was magic! As far as views go I think this one would have to have been the highlight of my trip.

South Island Road Trip
Walk to Whisky Falls – Lake Rotoiti

After breakfast and pack up I headed around the west side of the lake to do the walk to Whiskey Falls. It said an easy 10-11km return so that sounded like a good way to spend a few hours. What a gorgeous walk that takes you about 40 minutes to the edge of the lake and then follows the lake until you reach the 40m waterfall. Such a beautiful spot to rest and replenish before making your way back. What was extra special was the birds, I have never seen so many Korimako (bellbirds). A Robin greeted me when I first started out and you could hear Tui as well but it was the Korimako that really stole the show.

There are so many walks and tracks in this area I just know I have to come back. There is a lodge, shop/cafe and tavern just up the road and the locals seem pretty friendly. I was reluctant to leave but I had to get to Blenheim for a wine tour I had booked for the following day. I was looking forward to getting out and tasting some magnificent Marlborough wines.

SOUTH ISLAND ROAD TRIP DAY 11 – BLENHEIM, MARLBOROUGH WINE

South Island Road Trip
Marlborough

There is only one thing that brought me to Blenheim and that was the wine. Marlborough is Aotearoa’s largest wine region with over 75% of the countries wine industry located here. It’s a ‘must-do’ as far as New Zealand wine experiences go and has been on my ‘to do’ list for a long time. I did a fantastic half-day wine tasting tour, including lunch, with Chris at Na Clachan Wine Tours Marlborough. A very experienced small operator that tailors his tours to suit his customers. How lucky was I!

We started with a pick up at midday and headed for lunch and wine tastings at Saint Clair Family Estate. Firstly, I have to mention that lunch was absolutely delicious. I had a meal that was titled ‘Inspired by the Garden’. It was a vege delight! I was expecting to taste a lot of Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir but I was treated to so much more than that. At Saint Clair I got to taste a Malbec, a favourite red of mine.

South Island Road Trip
Marlborough Wine Region

Moving on we stopped at Rock Ferry Wines, an organic boutique winery. The host Rudy was quite the character, a Dutchman. The highlight here would have been the egg fermented Pinot Blanc. Definitely a new one for me.

Next stop was Villa Maria Estate, a well-known winery with Dalmatian roots that started in Mangere, Auckland. Also, the most award winning Winery in Aotearoa. With vineyards all over NZ their range is extensive but it was a Syrah and Merlot/Cab that impressed me.

South Island Road Trip
Clos Henri Vineyard

Our final stop was my favourite. Talk about saving the best for last. Clos Henri Vineyard is something special. The story behind the vineyard is such an interesting one which began in the Loire Valley, France. A region I have also done some wine tasting. They specialise in Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir but the twist is that the vineyard is situated on a fault line with clay on one side and stone on the other. The same grapes just meters apart produce different wines, it’s brilliant! So the tastings are set up to compare one against the other. And then to top it off the cellar door is in an old relocated rimu church which is symbolic to the vineyard back in France. Oh, and they are also organic certified. This is definitely a must-do stop if you are wine tasting near Blenheim.

SOUTH ISLAND ROAD TRIP DAY 12 – BLENHEIM TO PICTON

South Island Road Trip
Picton

I headed off early this morning with no real plan other than to take a detour out to Whites Bay on my way to Picton with the thought I might stay at the Momorangi Campground (DOC).

I got to Whites Bay, just 20 minutes from Blenheim and discovered a fantastic little beach with a DOC campground and surf club. A short stroll along the beach took me to some very cool rocks. There was a giant hole that when you look through it you saw snow-capped mountains. The swell pushed up along the rocks and into the hole which was entertaining. I was there about two hours after low tide so I’m not sure if you could get out on the rocks at hide tide, I wouldn’t think so. There was a mermaid pool as well and a goat track that took you up above the rocks with views over the other side back towards Blenheim. This would be a fantastic camping holiday location which, I assume is super busy in the summer.

South Island Road Trip
Whites Bay

From there I headed to Picton, not far. My first stop was to walk the Tirohanga Track to the lookout which Chris from my wine tour had recommended. Such a great recommendation giving a stunning view of Picton and beyond. It’s a bit of a climb, my calves were burning after 10 minutes but it was only a 30 minute climb then another 5 minutes along the ridge to the lookout. A bit like walking up Mauao (Mt Maunganui). I got chatting to a local who gave me some good info about getting out into the sounds by boat so I was excited to get back into town to see what I could organise.

I went into the iSite and a staff member there was very helpful. She gave me some good ideas about catching a boat and walking a section of the Queen Charlotte Track. I was too late to do it that day so I decided I would do it the next day.

South Island Road Trip
Momorangi Campground

I went and found some lunch at Seabreeze Cafe & Bar, and enjoyed some yummy Queen Charlotte mussels! And then I spotted the Picton Heritage and Whaling Museum. I come from a family of whalers that lived in this area (Heberley Family) so I had to go and check it out. The lady at the museum was super lovely and interesting to talk to as she knew of the Heberleys having come from a fishing family in the area herself. It was a neat little museum that starts with the stories of Kupe, the Polynesian explorer, through to colonial history. It was only $5 for entry and was definitely worth it.

After the museum I decided to take a drive around to Momorangi Campground on the Queen Charlotte scenic drive just to have a look. Some stunning views and the campground is lovely, right on the water’s edge. However, I decided to stay in Picton for two nights at the Top 10 Holiday Park. I had booked a boat that was leaving at 9am the next day returning at about 4.30pm. I was so excited to be exploring the sounds and I had my fingers crossed for lots of dolphins.

SOUTH ISLAND ROAD TRIP DAY 13 – MARLBOROUGH SOUNDS

South Island Road Trip
Queen Charlotte Track

What a magic day! I was so glad I decided to stay in Picton for two nights to have a whole day to get out and about exploring the Queen Charlotte Sounds. I caught a ride with Cougar Line – Marlborough Sounds to Furneaux Lodge to walk a 12km section of the Queen Charlotte Track ending at Punga Cove Resort. As we left Picton a seal waved us on our way and it wasn’t long before we saw a large pod of dolphins, such a treat. We had a few drop-offs to do first and it was about 10.30am by the time we got to Furneaux Lodge. The lodge is gorgeous! I’m guessing a popular place to stay for track walkers/bikers and anyone else looking for a lovely lodge to spend a night or few.

South Island Road Trip
Punga Cove Resort

The track itself was super easy, wide and flat. Also, a popular track with bikers. It followed the coast all the way with glimpses of the water when a break in the bush allowed. The hardest part was trying not to slip over on the wet parts of the track. I came close a few times. There were a few places along the way you could stop for the night, mostly campsites, and some lovely picnic table spots too. It took me about three and a half hours to get to Punga Cove Resort which is another amazing venue. Great facilities including a waterfront cafe where I enjoyed a nice cold beer and local crumbed clams while I waited for my boat. I was back in Picton just after 4pm feeling very satisfied with my day. I loved my short time in Picton, I will be back for sure!

SOUTH ISLAND ROAD TRIP DAY 14 – PICTON TO CHRISTCHURCH

South Island Road Trip
The Store, Kekerengu

My last day with the camper, which was due for drop off in Christchurch that afternoon. I left Picton in the morning with not a lot of time for stops but I did make a few. The first stop was for a coffee at The Store in Kekerengu. What a neat place right on the waterfront with a campsite nearby. Great coffee and muffin too! Next stop was Ōhau to see the seals, so many seals! A final quick stop was at the Kaikoura Lookout because that view is just stunning on a winters blue sky day. Then it was into Christchurch to drop off my camper and pick up a rental car. After having to change my flights for the third time I decided to spend a night in Christchurch before flying home the next day. Getting a rental car was much cheaper than using taxis to get around.

South Island Road Trip
Ōhau Seal Colony

The Antarctic Centre was on my ‘to do’ list but it was only open Fri-Sun so I was a bit sad to miss out on that. So I headed to my accommodation, the Foley Towers Hostel. I have stayed in a few different hostels in Christchurch but this has to be my favourite so far. Such character and lovely spaces!

I had an amazing two weeks and travelled nearly 3000kms. It was a lot of ground to cover but it has given me some great insights into places I would love to return to and explore more. A camper road trip has been interesting but I am not sure if it really suits me as a solo traveller. I do enjoy a good hostel with friendly faces. Maybe if it was summer and I could do more freedom camping I might enjoy the campervan adventure more.

If you are interested in what the campervan cost me with the great deal I got it was $350 for 12 days + $180 full insurance. If it had been the normal price I would have been looking at closer to $2k which I would have never paid. Not this budget traveller!

Other articles that may interest you:
BOOK YOUR CAMPERVAN WITH AN EXCLUSIVE DISCOUNT
A SOUTH ISLAND HOLIDAY WITH KIDS
MILFORD CRUISE REVIEW

Karllie Clifton - Yolo Solo

ABOUT THE WRITER – Karllie is a solo budget traveller with a passion for inspiring others to explore her homeland of Aotearoa New Zealand and beyond. Having travelled to many places around the world she still believes there is nowhere more amazing and beautiful as home. In her 40s, Karllie has a background in education and enjoys the outdoors, especially hiking. Find out more about Karllie…

Are you inspired? Pin it on Pinterest!

South Island Road Trip

RETURN TO HOME

Share this post with others on your favourite social media...

Leave Comment

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *