The Pinnacles Walk, also known as the Kauaeranga Kauri Trail, is one of my all-time favourite overnight hikes and one of the most popular walks in the North Island of New Zealand. The Pinnacles Hut is a fabulous serviced 80-bed lodging making it the largest Department of Conservation (DOC) hut in New Zealand.
The first time I attempted the Pinnacles walk was back in 2004. I had not long started teaching and I was with a group of students and a few other teachers. I remember being a little nervous about the climb thinking all these young fit teens were going to leave me for the dust. What I learned quickly about teenagers and the outdoors is that they might be young but they are not always that fit! In all the hikes with teens I have done since (and there have been many), I have never been the slowest haha.
I have completed the Pinnacles walk about ten times now and it never ceases to invigorate me. While writing this I suddenly realised that I have never done this hike solo. Rather ironic since I usually hike alone. This hike is one of my first choices when I want to take someone else on an impressive overnight adventure. And there have been other times where I have just tagged along with anyone who asks because I really do like it that much. I have also never done the Pinnacles walk as a day hike. The highlight of the Pinnacles for me is getting up to the lookout for the sunset and sunrise. This is best achieved by staying overnight in the hut. The lookout is still another 40 minutes from the hut and includes a steep climb, ladders, and a scramble.
THE PINNACLES WALK
The Pinnacles Walk can be done as a day hike or an overnight hike. It begins at the end of Kauaeranga Valley Road, approximately a 30-minute drive from Thames. Before getting to the road end you will pass the Kauaeranga Visitor Centre which is well worth calling in to. There you will find friendly staff, refreshments and camping supplies, drinking water and toilets. There are also displays on local culture, history, natural features, flora and fauna. Once you are at the end of the road you will find plenty of room for parking vehicles. Most overnight hikers leave their vehicles here and leaving yours should be safe, I always do without a problem. I have never heard of break-ins or damage to vehicles. However, make sure you don’t leave any valuables in your car.
WEBB CREEK TRACK TO HYDRO CAMP
Time: 2 hours
Distance: 3 Km
The Webb Creek Track is the most popular track walked by those heading to the Pinnacles Hut. It starts at the far end of the car park where you will find a swing bridge just a short distance into the track. Once you have crossed the river the track follows it for a while before heading into the hills. Shortly after passing the turn off for the Moss Creek Track, the climb begins. This section of the track is made up of giant man-made stairs. They were cut into the rock to make it easier for packhorses to get through during the kauri logging days. These stairs are the reason I prefer to come down this way instead of going up. However, it is the shortest route to the hut, hence the most preferred.
BILLYGOAT TRACK TO HYDRO CAMP
Time: 3 hours
Distance: 7.5 Km
If I am choosing which direction to go I always prefer to head up the Billygoat Track. It is quite a bit further than the Webb Creek track but I really like that it doesn’t have giant stairs! In saying that there is still a decent climb. This track begins about 300m back from the end car park, where there is another smaller car park. You will start with a river crossing as there is no bridge. In the summer you can usually rock hop across without getting your feet wet. However, the water level will be higher after rain or during the wetter months. Do not attempt to cross this river during or after heavy rain. Once across, there is about 45 minutes of climbing which comes to an end at the top of an old rail track. Just a little further on is an unmarked track that diverts off to the left. It is hard to spot if you are coming from the other direction. This detour is worth taking as a side trip, especially if it is a hot day and you are looking for a nice cold dip. You will find swimming holes, waterfalls and rocks to laze around on. This is the perfect place to stop for lunch if you plan it right.
Over the next short while you will walk through the Billygoat Basin. You will pass the turnoff to the Tarawaere and Hihi tramping tracks, a side trip to the collapsed Long Trestle Bridge and a basic campsite. After that, it is a bit of a long slog uphill. If it is a nice clear day then be sure to look back for the views back down into the basin. As you get up to the saddle you will be able to see down across the Kauaeranga Valley and the Hauraki Plains. Finally, there is a much-welcomed descent to the Hydro Camp where you will find the junction for the Webb Creek Track and the Pinnacles Hut Track.
HYDRO CAMP TO THE PINNACLES HUT
Time: 1 hour
Distance: 3 Km
This is probably the most non-eventful part of the walk but it does finish with you arriving at the amazing Pinnacles Hut! As you get closer to the hut you will start to get glimpses of the Pinnacles and keep an eye out for the giant hollow log.
THE PINNACLES HUT TO THE PINNACLES LOOKOUT
Time: 40 mins one way
Distance: 1 Km
Following on from the most non-eventful part of the walk comes the most eventful! It is a great idea to make sure you get to the hut and settled in with enough time to get up to the lookout for sunset. You should have checked the time for this when you had a cellphone reception as you won’t have any at the hut. Although, the hut warden may have written it on the board if you are lucky. If you leave the hut an hour before sunset that should give you plenty of time. The 15 minutes before the sunset is often the best. Take a torch/headlight and something warm as it is very exposed at the top. You may not need the torch/headlight if you head down straight after the sun has set but it might be handy if you hang around a bit longer.
The first part of this track is easy and then you hit a whole lot of stairs. Not big giant stairs but there are quite a few of them. Once you get to the top of those the ladders and scramble begins. If you are not comfortable with heights you might find this a challenge. But be reassured that coming down won’t be as bad as you imagine. There are plenty of rocks, roots, and rungs in all the right places to hold on to. If you are a bit nervous, hold on to the thought that it will be absolutely worth it! I wouldn’t bother heading up to the lookout if the weather isn’t great. The whole point of the lookout is the views. By all means though, if you are one of those people that has to say you have been there done that, go for it.
THE PINNACLES HUT
As I have already mentioned, this amazing 80-bed hut is the largest DOC hut in Aotearoa New Zealand. Booking ahead is very important as it gets busy. Saturday nights are often booked out a few months in advance, especially over the sunnier months. During the school terms (on weeknights) you can expect to find school groups there. If you are flexible with days and wanted to enjoy a less crowded experience choose a Friday or Sunday night. Avoid public holidays and long weekends, unless of course, a crowd is what you desire.
This hut is very well equipped and you can expect to find a warden there. The bunk beds are spread across two large rooms which are quite warm overnight, even through the winter. On a lower level, there is a large kitchen and dining area as well as outdoor balconies with tables. In the kitchen are all the pots, pans, plates, cups and utensils you will need. Although it wouldn’t hurt to at least bring your own plate, cup, and cutlery. There are multiple gas hobs for cooking inside and a large barbeque outside. It is recommended that you boil drinking water as is the recommendation for most DOC huts. There is a cold shower outside but it will be closed if there is a water shortage. There are multiple outdoor sinks for washing and brushing teeth. It is important to note that it is not culturally appropriate in New Zealand to use kitchen sinks for cleanliness activities such as brushing your teeth.
KAURI DIEBACK DISEASE
This disease was first detected in the 1970s, on Great Barrier Island. However, it wasn’t until 2008 that it was declared an unwanted organism. By the following year the NZ Government started funding a long term management programme to help protect our forest giants. Kauri dieback is a tiny fungus-like pathogen called Phytophthora taxon Agathis (PTA) which only affects kauri. It is carried through the soil and most easily spread by humans and animals.
A lot of effort is taken to ensure we protect what kauri we have. The Pinnacles walking tracks will have wash stations at the entrances. It is important to make sure you used them when you enter AND exit the tracks. I can not emphasise enough how important this is. Please make every effort to help protect these special taonga (treasures) of Aotearoa New Zealand.
BE SURE TO STOP IN THAMES
If you have not been to the historic town of Thames then plan some time into your trip so you can check it out. First established as a gold mining town you will still find some of the original buildings. The town has a quaint feel to it and the locals are very hospitable. If you are looking for a good place to stop for brunch or lunch I highly recommend Cafe Melbourne on the town’s main street. The town also has plenty of supplies with a large PAK’nSAVE supermarket and Warehouse store located in the main shopping center. You will also find a selection of other stores there.
Other articles that may interest you:
TONGARIRO NORTHERN CIRCUIT
WALKS, HIKING AND HUTS ON GREAT BARRIER ISLAND,
THE KARANGAHAKE GORGE, COROMANDEL
ABOUT THE WRITER – Karllie is a solo budget traveller with a passion for inspiring others to explore her homeland of Aotearoa New Zealand and beyond. Having travelled to many places around the world she still believes there is nowhere more amazing and beautiful as home. In her 40s, Karllie has a background in education and enjoys the outdoors, especially hiking. Find out more about Karllie…
