The Rakiura Track on Rakiura Stewart Island is one of Aotearoa New Zealand’s Great Walks. This happened to be the third Great Walk I completed on my mission to tick off all the Great Walks of Aotearoa New Zealand. However, it wasn’t just the Rakiura Track that I was looking forward to but also the chance to visit and spend some time on Rakiura Stewart Island. I love islands but I knew this one was something a little different and special. Rakiura National Park takes up eighty-five percent of the island which is the third biggest island in Aotearoa New Zealand. The island is an official Dark Sky Sanctuary, one of only two in Aotearoa with the other being Aotea Great Barrier Island. And if you want to see a Kiwi in the wild then this is one of the best places to find one.
GETTING TO RAKIURA STEWART ISLAND
There are two options for getting to Rakiura Stewart Island, ferry or fly. I don’t do ferries unless I absolutely have to, so it was a no brainer that I was going to fly with Stewart Island Flights. From Invercargill airport, it is just a 15-minute flight to the island. This option is really convenient if you are flying into Invercargill as you can get off one plane and on to the next. The plane is small with just 8 passenger seats so it is a little cosy but the views are spectacular. When you land there is a shuttle van waiting to take you down to the terminal in Oban, all part of the service. For $225 return this was money well spent. To catch the ferry is $160 return but you also have to organise getting to Bluff. The reason I prefer not to take the ferry is that I get seasick on rough seas. The Foveaux Strait is well known for its big swells. However, if you think the ferry is for you then you can book through Stewart Island Experiences. The ferry ride will take you about an hour and is a lovely sail if you are lucky enough to catch it on one of the rare calm days. Or so I am told.
STAY IN OBAN
Oban is the only settlement on Rakiura Stewart Island with Halfmoon Bay as the main centre. This is where you will find most of the accommodation, places to eat and the only supermarket for supplies. I stayed at the Stewart Island Backpackers which was conveniently located just a two-minute walk from the Stewart Island Flights terminal. A great budget option at $39 a night for a dorm bed. Single beds, no bunks. I was fortunate to end up in a dorm for my first two nights with two other lovely ladies. We had some great travel stories to share. The backpackers is well equipped for visitors to the island and the staff are super friendly and welcoming. I really enjoyed my stay here. There appears to be a variety of other accommodation options from hotels to private holiday homes. When it comes to getting around you can just about walk everywhere you need to go. If you need to go a little further then you can book a shuttle with Aurora Cab Co, rent a vehicle from the Oban Visitor Centre or high an e-bike from Stewart Island Electric Bikes.
When it came to meals I chose to mix it up with eating out, takeaways and self-catering. There is only one supermarket, a local Four Square. They are well stocked with everything you will need and at very reasonable prices. There is no need to bring food with you, especially if you are flying with a 15kg limit. If you want to dine out, the South Sea Hotel is your only real option. Right on the waterfront, this is where everyone gathers for a beer and a bite to eat. You can dine in the pub or book a table in their restaurant. The meals are well priced, delicious and include a range of local ingredients on the menu. I enjoyed fresh mussels and Stewart Island salmon on the two nights I dined there. For a takeaway option, you want to head to the Kai Kart on Ayr Street. Here you can try the local blue cod battered and deep-fried, a south island favourite. I can vouch for this being some of the best fish and chips I have ever had in Aotearoa. Blue cod is such a treat for us North Islanders. However, if it is just a good coffee you are after then head to Just Cafe on Main Road. They do great slices and cakes as well.
THINGS TO DO IN OBAN
It is a great idea to give yourself at least a full day or two to enjoy Oban. There is plenty for all budgets from self-exploring to organised tours. I won’t cover everything but will include all the activities I managed to fit in. After arriving and settling in on my first afternoon I went for a walk and explored Oban. I ended up over the hill at Bathing Beach and was surprised not to find anyone else there. What a gorgeous beach! It was a bit too cold to be tempted for a swim but it was nice to stroll the shoreline. I then headed to the South Sea Hotel for a beer and some dinner. Such a great place to meet people, locals and visitors to the island. I thought I would be in for an early night but my roommates didn’t take much to convince me to join them for a walk down to the wharf to watch the penguins return to their burrows for the evening. We only saw two but I was told that some nights there are more.
My second day on Rakiura Stewart Island was my only full day so a visit to Ulva Island was the priority. That needs an explanation all of its own which you will see below. It is such a special place. After Ulva Island I headed to the Rakiura Museum only to find it closed at 3pm, I was too late. However, at 4pm was a screening of A Locals Tail at the Bunkhouse Theatre. This is a very cool 40-minute screening of local history and stories told by Lola, a local dog. Lola also happened to be at the theatre so it was lovely to meet her. Day three was my first day on the Rakiura Track. However, the morning began with torrential rain so I decided to delay my start and head to the Rakiura Museum. A great wet weather activity. The museum building is very new and accommodates a wonderful collection of historic items and information. Definitely a ‘must do’.
When I returned from doing the Rakiura Track it was well before midday so I had all afternoon to get out and explore a little more. I decided to hire an e-bike so I could get a little further afield. I went straight to Stewart Island Electric Bikes but unfortunately, all the bikes were out. Definitely a good idea to book one if you can. However, the staff there recommended I check out the Oban Visitors Centre at the Red Barn to see if they had any left and lucky for me they did. This was my first time riding an e-bike, a serious game changer for me who doesn’t usually like riding bikes. Uphill is a whole new experience! Once I got comfortable with my e-bike and headed out to Ackers Point Lighthouse. The ride out there was lovely as was the walk to the lighthouse. The lighthouse was not so impressive, just a big white box. On the way back from the lighthouse, near the start of the track, I took a little detour out Ackers Cottage. This is a historic building on the shore of a gorgeous little beach. By the time I got back to my e-bike, I didn’t have much time left of my three-hour hire. So it was a quick ride out to Horseshoe Bay before I had to turn around and go back to return the bike. I would definitely recommend hiring an e-bike to explore as much of Oban as you can. You could easily spend a whole day biking around and discovering places.
ULVA ISLAND
I have spent time in a few pest-free sanctuaries including islands and this one is right up there with the best. Getting to Ulva Island was easy, just a 10-minute walk over the hill to the Golden Bay Wharf. The Ulva Island Ferry leaves regularly throughout the day and for just $20 it is the most budget-friendly way to get there. However, you can book a wonderful tour with Stewart Island Experience which gives you the privilege of learning about the islands flora, fauna and history. I chose to go on my own and turned up at the ferry terminal without having pre-booked a ticket. The tickets are pretty cool, a leaf from the muttonbird scrub. It is just a short ride across to Ulva Island, about 15-20 minutes. Just watch for splashing waves if the water is a little choppy.
The island is not that big and you can walk the full circuit easily in less than two hours. I decided to spend four hours which allowed me to take my time and enjoy lunch with the weka in Sydney Cove. There were some very special creatures to see and I was a bit spoilt as I spotted a Southern Tokoeka also known as a Stewart Island Brown Kiwi and the largest of all Kiwi. Seeing a Kiwi in the day time was not something I expected but this is the very south and the daylight hours are long. I was told Kiwi stay out later in the morning because there are not enough dark hours to feed. Whatever the reason, I got to see a Kiwi in broad daylight, even if it was only briefly. Unfortunately, I gave it a fright as I walked noisily along the path, I was not expecting it. The other real highlight was also getting up close to a sea lion pup. Not on purpose, it was sitting right beside the track. I am not sure where its mother was but I didn’t hang around for too long to find out. I was also fortunate to see some Kākāriki, Tīeke (Saddleback), Pīpipi, Robin, Tomtit and of course the Weka.
THE RAKIURA TRACK
The main reason for me visiting Rakiura Stewart Island was to complete the Rakiura Track, one of Aotearoa New Zealand’s Great Walks. The Rakiura Track is a 32km track with two huts that can be done as a loop if you include 5kms of road walking from Oban to Lee Bay. Like most people do with all Great Walks, I had booked the huts months in advance to ensure I didn’t miss out. As I have already mentioned, day one started with torrential rain in the morning. I was originally going to walk the 5km of road to Lee Bay but didn’t fancy getting drenched before I had even got to the start of the track. It is only 8kms to the first hut, the Port William Hut, so I decided to book a shuttle with Aurora Cab Co to Lee Bay and start after lunch.
RAKIURA TRACK – DAY ONE
By the time I got to Lee Bay, it was still raining but it had definitely started to easy off. I couldn’t have timed it much better. Within half an hour of walking, I no longer needed my raincoat and the sun was coming out. I was so excited to finally be on the track that every corner I came around was a treat. This first part of the track sticks pretty close to the coastline so there are fantastic views and lookouts along the way. About halfway is Māori Beach, a beautiful beach with a campsite at the nearest end. This made a great place to stop for a rest and some refreshments. In my case a nice hot cup of soup. I met a couple here who were also heading in the same direction as me. We chatted for a bit before I carried on ahead of them. At the far end of the beach is a swing bridge that leads back into the bush. This is where I started to see some really impressive big trees, mostly Rimu. The Rata was also flowering which made for stunning splatters of red along the way. Just before I reached Port William Hut I spotted a sea lion cruising the shoreline, such a special moment to witness. It wasn’t quite 4pm by the time I arrived at the hut. It had taken me about 3.5 hours to get there. That was moving at a very leisurely pace and of course a decent stop at Māori Beach. Most people had arrived at the hut already so there were only a few beds left to choose from, luckily one was on a bottom bunk. I am not a fan of climbing down ladders in the middle of the night to go to the loo.
The Port William Hut is pretty awesome, situated on the waters edge with a big front lawn. Turns out the white-tail deer think the lawn is pretty awesome as well with two turning up late in the afternoon to feed on the grass. They were very cute! The evening was a pretty typical hut evening with everyone getting to know each other and then off to bed once the sun had gone down. I was keen to find a Kiwi but didn’t want to stay up late so I decided to be prepared in case I woke in the middle of the night. As it turned out I woke at about 1am needing to go to the loo. Since I was up I headed down the track to the campsite with my headlight covered in red cellophane. I had brought my own cellophane but there was also some available at the hut. Kiwi do not like bright lights but they can not see red light so it is a red light that you should use if you are out at night looking for Kiwi. I have had a little practice at looking for Kiwi at night having recently spent a night on Tiritiri Matangi Island near Auckland city. Listening out for rustling noises on the forest floor and moving quietly is the key. If they don’t hear you then they will have no idea you are there and you can watch them for ages. It didn’t take too long before I found one which I got to watch foraging for food for a moment before it moved off into the bush. With an estimated 20,000 Kiwi living on Rakiura Stewart Island, I knew my chances of seeing one were pretty high. Unfortunately, I also saw four possums while I was out as well. The warden at the hut said they had traps for rats but not the possums which I found surprising.
RAKIURA TRACK – DAY TWO
The next morning I didn’t rush to get up and took my time getting ready for the day. It turned out I was the only one who had gone looking for Kiwi which surprised me. I was the last to leave the hut at about 10am. With only 13kms and an estimated five hours of tramping, I was in no hurry. A light rain had settled in but not enough for me to bother with a raincoat as it was quite warm still. I had heard about the day two mud so had prepared myself for a slow pace. To start with though it was pretty easy going with a slight ascent. It was on the first downhill that the mud started which was a novelty to start with. However, that soon wore off and the mud became no fun at all. I was really glad I had hiking poles as they helped me check the depth so I could decide to go around it or straight through. I don’t mind getting my boots wet and dirty but I do prefer to avoid getting in up to my knees in mud. A couple of hours in I had caught up with some of the others which confirmed I was probably moving at a reasonable pace.
I stopped for lunch, hot soup and a peanut butter wrap. It was still drizzling so I did need to put on another layer while I was stationary. After a break and refuel I was just keen to get to the next hut, the North Arm Hut. I was well over the mud and not really enjoying the challenge at all. I passed a few more people and came across a buoy hanging from a tree that said ‘Halfway Tree’. Thankfully the warden at the last hut had warned us about this tree and confirmed it was definitely not halfway but much closer to the next hut. Someone’s idea of a not very funny joke I think! I finally made it to North Arm Hut just after 3.30pm, with much relief. I have to say I didn’t enjoy this day much at all. It was a slog that took more of a mental toll than a physical one but I can now say I had done it. It had taken me five hours and forty-five minutes all up, a bit longer than the estimated five hours but much less than many others had taken. Only one group had arrived before me so I had a whole bunkroom of beds to choose from. It was nearly an hour and a half before anyone else arrived.
Our hut warden Doug did his briefing at 6pm, pretty standard for most hut wardens on Great Walks. Along with his briefing, he included a fantastic talk on the local history of the area. I really enjoyed it and thanked him for it. While he was giving his talk I ate my dinner so once that was done I was ready for an early night after a big day. On my phone I had downloaded a movieso I headed to bed to watch it and was asleep before anyone else turned in. My plan was to be out of there first thing in the morning.
RAKIURA TRACK – DAY THREE
I awoke about 6am and was all ready to leave by 7am. Most people were still sound asleep. I thought it would be a good idea to get back to Oban early so I had the afternoon to explore a little more. It turned out a group of three who had been camping also had the same idea and headed off about the same time as me. We leapfrogged each other for most of the morning but I never saw anyone else until I got to Kaipipi Bay turn off. Another tramper heading to North Arm Hut on his first day of the Rakiura Track. He was doing it in the opposite direction. I enjoyed this last day much more than the previous day. Like the first day, it followed the coast for much of the track so there were stunning views of the ocean along the way. And the best part, there was not so much mud. I was totally over the mud!
It was about 10.30am by the time I reached the road end, just 2 kms from town. I had made good time indeed! The first stop was at the cafe for coffee and cake, I had earned it and it was so good! Feeling satisfied I was ready for a swim. I wasn’t sure I would be brave enough to get into the cold water of the far south but the sun had come out and I hadn’t showered in a few days. I headed straight for the beach and jumped in. It wasn’t to bad and I felt so good afterwards! But it didn’t beat the hot shower at the backpackers that followed. Thankfully they let me check in early and I was fortunate to end up with a whole room to myself. Body and boots clean I felt like a new person. Rakiura Track done and dusted!
FINAL WORDS
Rakiura Stewart Island is a place of warm welcomes and incredible southern hospitality. As a solo traveller I found it such a wonderful place to visit. The population and visitor numbers are small, mostly concentrated in Oban. This means that you tend to run into familiar faces and you can’t help but start conversations with strangers. Making friends is easy. The island is well set up for visitors despite a permanent population of just 400 to host them. Something that I hadn’t considered before visiting Rakiura was how long the days are during the summer. The sun sets a whole hour later than Auckland meaning it didn’t get dark until about 10pm. This meant you could fit so much more into the day, but it also meant you had to stay up later to go looking for Kiwi. I would definitely return to Rakiura and have other ideas on what I would like to do there next time. Apparently you can fly direct to Mason Bay from Invercargill, stay the night then tramp back towards Oban. It would also be great to get out on the water as well, maybe some fishing and sightseeing from a boat. And I would definitely do another trip to Ulva Island, that place is special. Thanks Rakiura for a wonderful time and I look forward to seeing you again.
AOTEAROA NEW ZEALAND’S GREAT WALKS
Great Walks are the best, well-maintained tracks that New Zealand has to offer. As of 2020, there are 10 Great Walks that include three in the North Island, six in the South Island and one on Rakiura Stewart Island.
NORTH ISLAND
Lake Waikaremoana
Tongariro Northern Circuit
Whanganui Journey
SOUTH ISLAND
Abel Tasman Coast Track
Heaphy Track
Paparoa Track
Routeburn Track
Kepler Track
Milford Track
STEWART ISLAND
Rakiura Track
Other articles that may interest you:
TONGARIRO NORTHERN CIRCUIT – A NEW ZEALAND GREAT WALK,
WALKS, HIKING AND HUTS ON GREAT BARRIER ISLAND,
10 BEST THINGS TO DO IN INVERCARGILL
ABOUT THE WRITER – Karllie is a solo budget traveller with a passion for inspiring others to explore her homeland of Aotearoa New Zealand and beyond. Having travelled to many places around the world she still believes there is nowhere more amazing and beautiful as home. In her 40s, Karllie has a background in education and enjoys the outdoors, especially hiking. Find out more about Karllie…
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