Tiritiri Matangi is an island paradise home to a plethora of native flora and fauna. Located in the Hauraki Gulf, just off the Whangaparaoa Peninsular, the island is easily accessible by boat. Thousands of visitors frequent the island each year to discover and enjoy the incredible birdlife. Many hope that they might be lucky to spot a Tuatara, Kōkako or a Kiwi. I have been fortunate to visit this island in the summer and winter which are both quite different experiences. Both times were overnight trips and this is what I discovered…

THE HISTORY OF TIRITIRI MATANGI

It is understood that the island became isolated from the mainland about 20,000 years ago due to rising sea levels. A forest of salt-resistant flora blanketed the island creating a home for many forest and sea birds. The island’s first human inhabitants were Māori who settled on the island about 600 years ago. Resources here were rich and would have supported a decent number of Māori settlers on the island. Two pa sites are still evident and clearly identify at the north and north-west of the island. Tiritiri Matangi is the name given by Māori and it remains as the islands name today, meaning ‘buffeted by the wind’ or ‘wind blowing about’.

After the signing of Te Tiriti o Waitangi in 1840, Lieutenant Governor William Hobson set aside a lighthouse reserve. However, it wasn’t until 1865 that the completed lighthouse sent out its first beam of light. By this time farming on this island was well established and continued into the 20th century. During World War 2, the island was used as part of the Auckland Harbour defences and a signal station was built. Evidence can still be seen today with structures remaining to the south of the lighthouse.

In 1970, the island became a recreation reserve but very little flora and fauna remained. Kākāriki (Red-crowned Parakeet) were released on the island in 1974 and this caught the attention of a junior lecturer in zoology, John Craig. Craig enlisted the help of botanist Neil Mitchell to initiate scientific studies and before long the two hatched a plan to reforest the island. Over ten years, from 1984, over 280,000 trees were planted. As the restoration of flora came to an end the focus shifted to returning some of the native species that once lived there. Other endangered species were also introduced as the island proved a safe place for them to thrive.

TIRITIRI MATANGI TODAY

Today Tiritiri Matangi is a Scientific Reserve and home to a thriving number of species. Some of our most love creatures call this island home including the Kiwi Pukupuku (Little Spotted Kiwi), the Takahē, the Tuatara and Wētāpunga (Giant Weta). Many endemic birds thrive in numerous numbers on this island including the Kōkako, Hihi (Stitchbird), Tīeke (North Island Saddleback), Kākāriki (Red-crowned Parakeet), Kererū (NZ Wood Pigeon), Korimako (Bellbird), Tui and Popokatea (Whitehead). There are many other special birds species as there are geckos, skinks and insects.

Today this wildlife sanctuary is one of New Zealand’s most important conservation projects. But what makes it even more special is that it is easily accessible by the public, as was intended by Craig and Mitchell. There are not many places in Aotearoa that you can easily see and walk among so many rare species. The island is currently managed by the Department of Conservation in conjunction with the Supporters of Tiritiri Matangi Incorporated.

GETTING TO TIRITIRI MATANGI

Getting to the island is as easy as getting on a Explore Ferry from downtown Auckland or the Gulf Harbour Marina. The ride from Auckland will take approximately 80 minutes and only 25 minutes from Gulf Harbour. The ferry operates one trip a day from Wednesday to Sunday with different times for winter and summer seasons. It is best to check the Explore website for departure times. The cost of $82 return remains the same no matter which wharf you are boarding and returning to. If you are driving to the wharf to meet the ferry it is important to know that parking in downtown Auckland can be difficult and expensive. However, there is plenty of free parking at the Gulf Harbour Marina. You may visit the island in a private boat but the wharf is the only place you can unload. Boats must otherwise remain anchored offshore. Passengers are able to reach the island by a self-propelled vessel such as a kayak or dingy.

A DAY TRIP TO TIRITIRI MATANGI

Spending a day here is a great way to experience the island and the creatures that live there. Because the island is predator-free it is important to know about the biosecurity measures in place. You will need to make sure that anything you take onto the island is free from stowaway pests and that clothing and footwear are free from soil and seeds. It is advised that any bags you take onto the island are zipped, so no open bags are allowed. Dogs are also not permitted so your much-loved pooches must stay home.

There are no shops on the island other than a gift store that sells cold drinks. There is also complimentary tea and coffee on offer with a koha (donation) welcome. So you will need to pack your lunch, snacks and drinks for the day. There are also no public rubbish bins so you will need to take all your rubbish home with you. Other items to add to your day pack should include sunscreen, sun hat, swimwear and a towel if you think you might like to go for a swim. Prams and wheelchairs can access some of the tracks but a number of them have stairs. There is a vehicle that can take gear from the wharf up the hill to the visitors centre.

It is a really good idea to book a guided tour for when you arrive on the island. This is only $10 and can be paid for when you book your ferry ticket. It is well worth spending time with one of the many volunteers who know the island well. They can tell you about all the flora and fauna and help you find some of the special species that live there. A guided tour should take an hour or two, finishing at the visitors centre in time for some lunch. Then you have the rest of the afternoon to go and explore the island on your own and hopefully discover the other special creatures you might not have seen yet.

STAYING ON TIRITIRI MATANGI

The best way to experience Tiritiri Matangi is by staying overnight in the island bunkhouse. With only 15 beds it is not easy to get a bed as they go fast. You will likely have to book well in advance or keep an eye out for a last-minute cancellation. However, if you do manage to book a bed you will have the opportunity to go out at night looking for the Kiwi Pukupuku – Little Spotted Kiwi. I saw four on my summer visit but none in the winter. And if you are really lucky, and quiet, you may even see some Tuatara. Unfortunately, I wasn’t so lucky on my summer visit but I saw two during my winter visit. I am not sure if it was luck or the seasons. In the next morning, you must get up early to catch the incredible dawn chorus, which is as close as you might get to nature’s symphony.

If you are a keen photographer you will want to make sure you have your camera. There will be plenty of time to sit and capture some stunning wildlife shots. To see the Kiwi you must use a red light. I have a red light on my head torch but found it wasn’t bright enough. Luckily, the bunkhouse had a supply of red cellophane and rubber bands for covering torches which did the trick. However, if you can organise your own before heading to the island this would be better. You may also want to consider bringing snorkelling and fishing gear if you are visiting in the summertime. Fisherman’s Bay is a great spot for exploring marine life or some rock fishing.

The bunkhouse can be booked through the Department of Conservation website. The building consists of three rooms, the Kōkako Hut (5 beds), the Kahu (4 beds) Hut and the Tuatara Hut (6 beds). The bunkhouse is well equipped with everything you will need from pots and pans, crockery and cutlery as well as a gas stovetop, microwave, toasters, fridges and a freezer. You just need to bring some food. Alcohol is allowed but to be consumed responsibly, this is not a place to plan a party. For bedtime, you will need to bring a sleeping bag, sheet and pillowcase. There are communal bathrooms with hot showers and toilet paper supplied. In the morning before departure, there is a checklist for cleaning that everyone is expected to pitch in and help with.

FOR MORE INFORMATION: The official website for Tiritiri Matangi will provide you with all the information you need about the island and for planning a trip there.

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ABOUT THE WRITER – Karllie is a solo budget traveller with a passion for inspiring others to explore her homeland of Aotearoa New Zealand and beyond. Having travelled to many places around the world she still believes there is nowhere more amazing and beautiful as home. In her 40s, Karllie has a background in education and enjoys the outdoors, especially hiking. Find out more about Karllie…

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