TONGARIRO NATIONAL PARK

Before getting into the details of the Tongariro Northern Circuit it is important to first acknowledge the Tongariro National Park as the oldest national park in Aotearoa New Zealand. It is also a dual World Heritage area. This recognises the important values of Māori cultural and spiritual connections as well as the exceptional volcanic features.

Ko Tongariro te maunga – Tongariro is the mountain
Ko Taupo te moana – Taupo is the lake
Ko Ngāti Tuwharetoa te iwi – Ngāti Tuwharetoa is the tribe
Ko te Heuheu te tangata – Te Heuheu is the man / Chief

Find out more about the History and Culture of Tongariro National Park

THE TONGARIRO NORTHERN CIRCUIT

The Tongariro Northern Circuit is one of New Zealand’s Great Walks and the only one that offers volcanic terrain and scenery. This 43km circuit can be in four days or less as there are three huts/campsites for overnight stays. The Tongariro Northern Circuit follows a trail around Mount Ngauruhoe with stunning views of Mount Ruapehu most of the way. One section of the Tongariro Northern Circuit includes the best part of the very popular Tongariro Crossing. Mount Tongariro, Mount Ngauruhoe and Mount Ruapehu are all active volcanoes with the most recent eruption occurring in 2012. In January 2020, I spent four days hiking the Tongariro Northern Circuit and this is my account of the experience…

TONGARIRO NORTHERN CIRCUIT – DAY ONE

WHAKAPAPA VILLAGE TO MANGATEPOPO HUT
Distance – 9km
Time – 3 Hours
Difficulty – Easy

I set off on the first leg of this four-day hike in the mid-afternoon as I knew it would only take a few hours. It was a really enjoyable walk with a little bit of bush at the start. However, most of the trail is across exposed volcanic terrain which was relatively flat with short ups and downs across dry streams. I was pretty excited to finally be on the circuit having booked it several months ago. Just the day before there had been extremely high winds that prevented people from hiking in the Tongariro National Park so I felt very fortunate to be starting the circuit in great weather.

By the time I arrived to the hut, there was only a top bunk bed left as I was the last one to get there. This is one of the downsides of arriving late to a fully booked hut, but I didn’t mind on this occasion. The hut was pretty cosy with very little room in the kitchen. Loads of people were busy making their dinner so I didn’t end up preparing mine until about 8pm. Couscous and tuna were on the menu, a favourite hiking meal of mine because it is light to carry, quick to prepare and a good source of energy and nutrition.

The evening ended with a spectacular sunset, such a treat for my first day. It was straight to bed after that as it was going to be an early start in the morning.

TONGARIRO NORTHERN CIRCUIT – DAY TWO

MANGATEPOPO HUT TO OTURERE HUT
Distance – 12km
Time – 5 Hours 45 Minutes
Difficulty – Challenging

This was the hardest of all four days with the climb up and over Mt Tongariro following the crossing to Emerald Lakes. I got away at 6.45am, so I could beat the crowds but people were already starting passing the Mangatepopo Hut. Over 2000 people were expected on the crossing that day.

Having done the crossing twice before I knew what to expect for this part of the hike. The climb up the ‘Devils Staircase’ wasn’t as hard as remembered but I really don’t like stairs and was happy when that part was over. The views for this section of the hike are spectacular and even though I had seen them before they still amazed me. The deep red rock of Red Crater and the colour of the Emerald Lakes are so impressively dramatic!

Coming down from the highest point isn’t the easiest with a large section of steep scree and loads of people. However, my hiking poles were put to good use. As they were on the downhill from Emerald Lakes which was another steep descent following a rocky ridgeline. This section alone took me nearly an hour, it was slow going but I was all alone and in no hurry. These descents are where people fall and injure themselves.

Once down into the Oturere Valley I really got to enjoy the solitude. The experience was quite a contrast having gone from a few hours of hiking with crowds to having the whole trail to myself. This section of the hike was probably one of my favourites. The landscape was so desolate with jagged rocky lava forms scattering the area. I meet two guys heading in the opposite direction and did not envy them at all heading up that climb and walking against the crowds. Walking the circuit anti-clockwise is not recommended for this reason.

I must say I was pretty happy to arrive at the Oturere Hut about 12.30pm. Having left early I was the second to arrive so I had loads of beds to choose from, yay! The friendly hut ranger welcomed me and pointed me in the direction of the waterfall. First though was lunch, I was starving. Others started arriving over the afternoon so it was nice to swap stories and get to know some of my fellow hikers as I hadn’t really had a chance the night before. This hut was even cosier than the last with a number of beds in the same room as the cooking area. Everyone was very considerate though. Many were in bed by 8pm but a few of us stayed up a bit later chatting outside. This was probably the coldest of my three nights but no one seemed interested in lighting the fire. I just doubled up on layers and warmed up once I was snuggled up in my sleeping bag. The next day was going to be a short easy walk so there was no need for an early start.

TONGARIRO NORTHERN CIRCUIT – DAY THREE

OTURERE HUT TO WAIHOHONU HUT
Distance – 8km
Time – 3 Hours
Difficulty – Easy

This was probably my favourite day! The morning started with a stunning sunrise and the promise of great weather. I didn’t need to be up early but was hard to lie in when there was an amazing day out there waiting for me.

It was just after 8am when I headed off but not before a group photo with new found friends. I was back on the trail solo but not long after leaving another solo hiker caught up and carried on ahead and for a while, I trailed her. It was during this time that it really hit me how humbling it was to be in the presence of these majestic mountains. Nature never ceases to amaze me.

The solo hiker had decided to wait for me in a spot with great views so we could take photos of each other. From that point on we hiked together chatting the rest of the way about our travel adventures. Before we knew it we were at Waihohonu Hut and it was only 11.15am. We had really enjoyed the last section of the walk which included a hill covered in bush. Having not been through any bush since the very start of the first day it was a real treat!

The Waihohonu Hut is hands down the best of all three. It’s relatively new, very spacious and in the best location for exploring surroundings. We were the first to the hut but my new friend wasn’t staying so I pick a bed and we both cooked up some lunch before she carried on. As I was having lunch others started to arrive.

The hut ranger had recommended a number of things to do so I decided to go exploring. This included the Waihohonu Historic Hut and Ohinepango Springs. My first stop was the historic hut which was only a ten-minute walk and well worth checking out. From there it was about 25 minutes to the freshwater springs. I took my water bladder with me to fill so I would have the freshwater for the rest of my trip. The water from these springs is so crystal clear!

It was after 2pm by the time I got back to the hut so I decided I would see if I could brave a cold stream swim. Having not had a shower for a few days I was keen for a fresh water rinse. Finding my way down to the swimming spot, I slowly made my way into the water which wasn’t as cold as I expected. Getting fully submerged I ended up sitting in the water for quite a while enjoying the peaceful surroundings and warm sun. I got out of the water feeling very refreshed!

Once back at the hut others were lounging around outside in the sun so I joined a group and sat there chatting for a while before they decided they were going to brave a swim as well. By late afternoon a number of us were back down at the stream, some taking a dip and some sitting around the rocks with our feet in the water. Such a perfect afternoon!

The ranger came in at 6pm to introduce himself and the area to us all. As did all the hut rangers, he first acknowledged the mountain, river and tribe in Māori. Ngāti Tuwharetoa are the iwi (tribe) of this region and rightfully the kaitiaki (guardians/protectors) of the area. It is great to see and hear that Ngāti Tuwharetoa and the Department of Conservation are working together to ensure we can all enjoy this special place.

It wasn’t a late night as the last day was going to be a long one. We all wanted to be out before 9am as there was a helicopter turning up which would hinder anyone moving from the hut while it was operating. I had a great night’s sleep after another fabulous day.

TONGARIRO NORTHERN CIRCUIT – DAY FOUR

WAIHOHONU HUT TO WHAKAPAPA VILLAGE
Distance – 16kms
Time – 5 Hours
Difficulty – Easy

Having had a short walk the day before I was looking forward to a decent distance for the last day. I started off with two others that I had got to know but they stopped off at the historic hut so off I went solo again. Another couple trailed me and I thought they might catch up but we kept a similar pace. The only thing I stopped for was the odd photo with a plan to take a break at the Tama Lakes.

It took me about two and a half hours to get to the Tama Lakes turn off. I decided just to walk to the lower lake which was 20 minutes’ return from the main track. The upper lake is 1.5 hours return and a bit of a climb. The lower lake was a nice rest stop but the wind chill meant I didn’t want to sit here for too long.

Once back on the track I started running into more people, day hikers heading out to the lakes and a few starting the circuit. Once I got to the Taranaki Falls turn off it got really busy! The Taranaki Falls loop is a very popular day walk and well worth it if you don’t have more than a few hours.

It was nice to be back in the bush for the last section of the circuit. I was looking forward to hot chips and a beer followed by a soak at Tokaanu Hot Springs. It turned out the café back at the village wasn’t open so the hot chips and beer were going to have to wait.

Back to cellphone reception, I was sad to learn that someone had just passed away on the crossing. It turned out to be a medical event of a 75-year-old tourist who was hiking with his son. Apparently, this guy was living life to the fullest having battled cancer for a few years. Not a bad way to go I thought. A rahui (restricted access out of respect) was placed on the area for a few days so I was thankful to have finished when I did.

I stopped at Tokaanu for my relaxing soak in a private pool, $12 for 20 minutes which was more than enough time. Finding the hot chips and beer proved to be a challenge. I decided to head around the western side of Lake Taupō and stopped in at Waihi just before 3pm but the kitchen had closed at the restaurant on the waterfront so I carried on and eventually came across the Tihoi Tavern. The best beer and chips I have had in a while. Nothing like a few days off the beaten track to help you appreciate the simple things.

This hike turned out to be an epic four days and the fantastic weather played a big part in that. You can’t plan for weather and you can’t book huts/campsites last minute so it really is a gamble. All you can do is cross your fingers and hope for the best. Thankfully, I got the best!

ADVICE FOR HIKING THE TONGARIRO NORTHERN CIRCUIT

CAN THE TONGARIRO NORTHERN CIRCUIT BE DONE IN LESS THAN FOUR DAYS?
Some very fit people complete the whole 43kms in one day, others run it over a few hours for training as it is just over the length of a marathon. However, most people do the full circuit over two to four days. If you have time I recommend doing the full four days and three nights so you can enjoy and take in everything this amazing location has to offer.

If you are limited for time and reasonably fit then two days is definitely possible with a night at Oturere Hut/Campsite. To break it up into three days, skip the Mangetepopo Hut. You may even like to start at the beginning of the Tongariro Crossing instead of Whakapapa Village. This will take about 8kms off the first day.

BOOKING THE TONGARIRO NORTHERN CIRCUIT
There is no cost to hiking the Tongariro Northern Circuit. However, as with all Great Walks, you need to book huts and campsites if you intend to stay overnight. There are three huts with campsites on this 43km trail.

These bookings often sell out fast so it is best to book as soon as you can. The bookings for all great walks open around mid-June each year. The Great Walk season runs from October through to April. You must book with the Department of Conservation on their website or at one of their visitor centers.

During the Great Walk season, the cost per person is $36 per night for a hut and $15 per night for a campsite. Outside the Great Walk season, it is $15 for a hut and $5 for a campsite. Children 17 and under are free all year round.

Doing the Tongariro Northern Circuit is not recommended outside of the Great Walk season unless you are experienced with winter alpine hiking or do a guided walk with an experienced guide. Conditions can be treacherous!

WHERE CAN I LEAVE MY VEHICLE WHILE I AM HIKING?
If you are driving to Whakapapa Village you can leave your car in a designated car park. You just need to call into the Visitor’s Centre and get a parking pass. The staff at the Visitor’s Centre will let you know where to leave your vehicle. The staff are really helpful and can assist with any other questions you may have. If you want to contact them before arriving you can call them on +64 7 892 3729.

WHAT FACILITIES ARE THERE ON THE TONGARIRO NORTHERN CIRCUIT?
All huts are fully serviced during the Great Walk season. This includes toilets (with paper), water (should be boiled or treated before drinking), heating and gas stoves. Each hut will also have a hut ranger living on site. Outside the Great Walk season, there is no gas or hut ranger. There are no rubbish facilities so you must take all your rubbish with you.

You will find toilets on the Tongariro Crossing section of the circuit. These are located at the bottom of the first climb (Devil’s Staircase) and there are more at the top. There are also toilets located between Waihohonu Hut and Whakapapa Village. These are at the Tama Lakes turn off and Taranaki Falls.

WHAT SAFETY CONCERNS ARE THERE?
There are a number of safety issues to be mindful of if you are hiking anywhere in the Tongariro National Park. The Department of Conservation website gives a lot of useful advice.

Checking the weather is extremely important. This is an alpine hike and even in the summer, the weather can become very hazardous. If you are not sure if the weather will be suitable for your hike then you should check with the Visitor’s Centre and follow their advice.

The Tongariro National Park includes three active Volcanos and they can be unpredictable. If you are not familiar with hiking in volcanic areas then talk to the staff at the visitors center about the current level of activity and what to do in an eruption. The minimum advice is to get to a hut if you are close or get to the top of a ridge away from any potential lava flows. The Department of Conservation website also has good information on Volcanic Risk in the Tongariro National Park.

Be sure you tell someone about your plans and make sure you have the right gear. You should be prepared for all weather, have warm and waterproof clothing as well as plenty of water and food. There is cell phone reception in many places along the track but not everywhere so don’t rely on this as your only form of communication in an emergency. It is a good idea to carry a Personal Locator Beacon which you can hire from the Visitor’s Center.

AOTEAROA NEW ZEALAND’S GREAT WALKS

Great Walks are the best, well-maintained tracks that New Zealand has to offer. As of 2020, there are 10 Great Walks that include three in the North Island, six in the South Island and one on Stewart Island.

NORTH ISLAND

Lake Waikaremoana
Tongariro Northern Circuit
Whanganui Journey

SOUTH ISLAND

Abel Tasman Coast Track 
Heaphy Track
Paparoa Track
Routeburn Track
Kepler Track
Milford Track

STEWART ISLAND

Rakiura Track

Other articles that may interest you:
WALKS, HIKING AND HUTS ON GREAT BARRIER ISLAND,
HIKING THE NORTHLAND SECTION OF THE TE ARAROA TRAIL,
THE KARANGAHAKE GORGE

ABOUT THE WRITER – Karllie is a solo budget traveller with a passion for inspiring others to explore her homeland of Aotearoa New Zealand and beyond. Having travelled to many places around the world she still believes there is nowhere more amazing and beautiful as home. In her 40s, Karllie has a background in education and enjoys the outdoors, especially hiking. Find out more about Karllie…

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